Novice Peaks and Routes

[emperorMA]

What are perhaps the top dozen or so Cascades routes that should be on a novice alpine climber's objective list? I'm just getting started up here and want to keep things fairly easy with glacier/snow climbs with perhaps a few shorter sections of easy rock scrambling.

 

So far, I know I want to do Mt. Shuksan, El Dorado Peak, Mt. Baker and Glacier Peak for sure, and will be doing a skills course on one of those mountains. I'm also thinking about Sahale Mountain and Mt. Rainier. I think my first attempt to do something on my own may end up being Ruth Mountain.

 

What am I missing? What others should be on my objective list after I have a chance to complete most of the above?

 

What are some really good climbs that beginners should aim for? I think suggestions from folks who climb a lot can really help newbies like me...thanks!

[BrianB2]

Black Peak, Silver Star

[TrogdortheBurninator]

http://www.dramaticwriter.com/beginners.html

[emperorMA]

http://www.dramaticwriter.com/beginners.html

It looks like this site could have some great suggestions but the only link that seems to work is the one provided.

 

The links to the actual snow, glacier and rock routes do not work. 8D

[RaisedByPikas]

Here is a list of basic climbs for the mounties.

 

http://www.tacomamountaineers.org/pdfs/basic_climbing/BasicClimbs.pdf

[TrogdortheBurninator]

http://www.dramaticwriter.com/beginners.html

It looks like this site could have some great suggestions but the only link that seems to work is the one provided.

 

The links to the actual snow, glacier and rock routes do not work. 8D

 

oops, guess i should have checked that the links were still live. it was a great list indeed. if you do a search on this site, you can probably find places where that list was discussed.

[goatboy]

Ahh, the miracle of the "Wayback Machine":

 

SNOW

Climbing snow routes is really the first step towards climbing. The following routes are the type that one would generally want an ice axe on, but the primary danger to climbers is truly avalanche potential and white-outs.

 

1) Mt. Persis

The West Ridge of this mountain is a nice beginner snow route. It climbs through a heavy forest to a view that simply can't be beat. This is a true beginners route for those with almost no experience in the mountains at all. It is best climbed in the late winter or early spring. One can find it described in the Cascade Alpine Guide: Volume One, by Fred Beckey.

 

2) Granite Mountain

A small fire look-out tops this peak, high above Interstate ninety. This is a great spring climb that puts one in the thick of it. One has to make a choice based on avalanche danger at the time. Either go up the avalanche chute to attain the summit or venture up the SouthWest ridge to avoid it. In either case, this climb can be found in the Cascade Alpine Guide: Volume One, by Fred Beckey.

 

3) Mt. Snoqualmie

The South Shoulder of this peak makes a great outing. It can be found in the Cascade Alpine Guide: Volume One, by Fred Beckey.

 

4) Goat Mountain

The Southwest Route is a fun romp with a spectacular view. If you plan on traversing between the two summits you may wish to bring a rope and some snow protection. This peak can be found in the Cascade Alpine Guide: Volume Three, by Fred Beckey.

 

5) Vesper Peak

The East Ridge of Vesper Peak is a wonderful trek in the early Summer. It can be found in the Cascade Alpine Guide: Volume Two, by Fred Beckey

 

6) Mt. Pugh

The Northwest Ridge is the preferred beginner route. Be sure you're map reading skills are excellent if you attempt this prior to June. A description can be found in the Cascade Alpine Guide: Volume Two, by Fred Beckey.

 

7) Mount St. Helens

Your first volocano climb should be the Monitor Ridge of this active giant. Generally this is best done in late Spring or early Summer. There is an excellent route description in Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.

 

8) Mount Adams

The South Spur of Mt. Adams is a classic beginner volcano route. There is an excellent write-up on this route in Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.

 

9) Red Mountain

The Southwest Ridge of this mountain makes a great first steep route for the beginning snow climber. You may want to use snow protection and pitch out the upper part of this 45 degree snowfield. Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume Two by Nelson and Potterfield has a good write-up on the route.

 

10) North Twin Sister

An excellent steep snow-climb, it was one of my first. A rope and some snow protection is not a bad idea for a beginner on the steep North Slope. Check the Cascade Alpine Guide: Volume Three, by Fred Beckey for a description.

 

GLACIER:

 

1) Mt. Daniel

Daniel Glacier - See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield

 

2) Silver Star Mountain

Silver Star Glacier - See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.

 

3) Mt. Ruth

Ruth Glacier - See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.

 

4) Mt. Hood

Palmer Glacier/South Side - See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.

 

5) Glacier Peak

Sitkum Glacier - See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.

 

6) Colchuck Peak

Colchuck Glacier - See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.

 

7) Mt. Baker

Coleman/Deming Glacier - See Cascade Alpine Guide: Volume Three, by Fred Beckey.

 

8) Mt. Shuksan

Sulphide Glacier - This is a wonderful glacier route until the summit pyrimid. Without proper training in rock climbing you may want to turn around here. To attain the summit, one must be able to climb three or four pitches of loose low fifth class rock. See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.

 

9) Sahale Peak

Quien Sabe Glacier - This is a steep snow and ice glacier climb in late season. There is a short thirty foot section of fourth class rock at the top of the climb. See Selected Climbs in the Cascade: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield. Note: This glacier is sometimes quite difficult and at other times quite straight forward. It all depends on the year.

 

ROCK:

 

1) North Twin Sister - West Ridge: Fourth Class, Steep Snow

2) The Tooth - South Face: 5.4

3) Ingalls Peak - South Ridge: 5.4

4) South Early Winter Spire - South Arete: 5.4

5) Kangaroo Temple - North Face: 5.6

6) Liberty Bell - The Becky Route: 5.6

7) Concord Tower - North Face: 5.6+

8) Mt. Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier - Southeast Ridge on Summit Pyramid: Glacier Travel, 5.6

9) Prusik Peak - West Ridge: 5.7 for a couple moves, mostly 5.5

10) Mt. Thompson - West Ridge: 5.6, Carry Over - Loose Rock on Descent in late season.

11) Vesper Peak - North Face: Steep Snow, 5.5, Carry Over

12) Forbidden Peak - West Ridge: Steep Snow, Glacier Travel, 5.6 - A Serious Alpine Rock Route

[ScottP]

http://www.dramaticwriter.com/beginners.html

It looks like this site could have some great suggestions but the only link that seems to work is the one provided.

 

The links to the actual snow, glacier and rock routes do not work. 8D

 

 

http://www.dramaticwriter.com/beginneralpine.html

 

http://www.dramaticwriter.com/beginnerglacier.html

 

http://www.dramaticwriter.com/beginnersnow.html

[emperorMA]

Thanks, all. Any thoughts about a fairly easy climb that feels like an "expedition," one that will take four days, maybe five?

 

BTW, I'm leaning very heavily toward doing my skills course on Mt. Shuksan. I like the thought of getting snow, glacier and alpine rock training all in one place.

[t_rutl]

Any thoughts about a fairly easy climb that feels like an "expedition," one that will take four days, maybe five?

 

Ptarmigan Traverse

Edited August 2, 2010 by t_rutl

[kukuzka1]

you could do adams slowly[3-4 days] theirs some easy to med routes, plus you wouldnt get a headbanger

[mountainsloth]

glacier peak for a 4-5 day route. check out the white chuck to cool glacier route. A few peeps have posted TRs on it in the past couple months.

[mattp]

Mt. Olympus? This is an outstanding objective and the actual climb is fairly easy. It'd be well worth an expedition.

 

You might not be 4 or 5 days on the trail but, assuming you come from Seattle, the trailhead must be close to 5 hours' drive all in itself.