[TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 7/14/2010

[flashclimber]

Trip: Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss

 

Date: 7/14/2010

 

Trip Report:

On 07/14/10, at 0700 AM, Kevin picked me up at my house in Mill Creek. This was going to be our first attempt at Infinite Bliss. We had made plans to climb it 3 times earlier in the year. However, each time we were shut down by rain or heat (way too hot 94F). I had read most of the trip reports and had tried to memorize all the pictures to make the attempt as easy as possible.

 

We wanted to scope out the route for a future full push if it looked possible. It appeared as if most people had failed on their first attempt. Our goal was to make it to pitch 16 and call it the day, if we made it that far. Jokingly I told my wife not to worry, “I should be home by 10 PM.” I told her if she was worried to, "Call the Sheriff if she didn’t hear from me by midnight." I had no plans of being on the route after dark. In fact I thought we would be home by 9PM.

 

Traffic wasn't too bad for a Wednesday. We stopped in Issaquah for our morning Starbucks coffee. The directions were fine except we got a little lost since they rebuilt Taylor Bridge. We kept going straight until we came to a road closure. We were looking for a washed out bridge. We turned around and figured out that you had to turn right after a newly built bridge. The road leading to the route was closed with a gate. Kevin needed to use the restroom so he went over to the campground. Meanwhile two guys in a pick up truck pulled up to the gate. They had a key to the gate. I yelled to Kevin I was going to hitch a ride to find the trailhead. He waved and went on with his business.

 

The guys gave me a ride to a large rock washout. They said this was 1 mile from the gate. I thanked them for the ride and started to look for the trailhead. I located it about 300 yards past the washout. There is a large cairn on the left side of the road. It was pretty obvious.

Old 5 car pullout. Rock washout

Trail head.

 

Kevin arrived around 15 minutes later. (Note: I hate to hike, I’m a horrible hiker, and did I mention I hate to hike). He took the lead on the trail at 9AM. There were plenty of cairns to mark the trail. It is a climber’s trail. Not too many switchbacks and lots of high-stepping. Not my favorite type of hiking. We arrived at the base of the route at 9:52 AM. Kevin only had to stop and wait for me once. Not too bad!

 

 

From the base of the route you can see all the way to the summit. Quite a view. We racked up and talked about who was going to lead. Kevin said he wanted to lead the first 8 pitches. He said he would lead everything 5.8 and under. I would take all the 5.9 and harder pitches. We decided 6:30 PM was out stop time no matter how close we were to the summit.

 

 

This was going to be our first time simul-climbing. We would stop and replenish draws as needed. Kevin took off with 25 quick draws and 4 slings.

 

We simul-climbed until the top of Pitch 5. Every time I caught up to Kevin I would put him back on lead until the rope was at full length. I also put him on lead every time he came to a sketchy section. Our tactics worked out great. (Note: On pitch 5 stay to the right…See Pic). I also placed a red flag on each of the anchors as I passed them. This would make it easy to find them when we rappelled. (The red flags are free and found at Lowes or Home depot in the wood department).

 

Kevin leading Pitches 1 and 2.

 

Anchors with red flags marking them.

 

Pitches 2 and 3

 

 

Me posing for the camera.

 

Pitch 4.

 

Pitch 5.

 

Kevin refreshing himself with a little Gatorade.

 

Kevin on Pitch 6.

 

 

The 50 foot walk between pitch 6 and 7 was easy. It’s more like 30 feet.

 

Kevin on Pitch 7.

 

 

Kevin on Pitch 8.

 

 

I led Pitch 9, a 5.9. There is a nice no-hands rest near the top.

 

 

 

Kevin took Pitch 10. (Note:Be careful on the walk between Pitch 10 and 11 its chossy).

 

The climb up/down between Pitch 10 and 11.

 

 

I took on Pitch 11 a 5.10b. It was very a straight forward, clean pitch.

 

Kevin led Pitch 12. A fun 5.8.

 

We simul-climbed the next 3 pitches (13, 14, and 15). Same tactics used as before. On difficult sections I would put Kevin on lead. This works wonders for the nerves!

 

Here I am on Pitch 13 putting Kevin back on lead when there was slack in the rope. (Notice how easy it is to see the red flags on the anchors).

 

 

(Note: Pitches 15, 16, and 17 were done in tennis shoes and sandals. My feet really appreciated this! Not very difficult climbing.)

 

The 80 foot traverse to Pitch 16.

 

 

Looking down from Bush anchors.

 

 

We made it to Pitch 16 by 2:30 PM. Our quitting time was 6:30 PM, so we climbed on. Kevin started off on the “80 foot easy traverse to the first small bush anchor.” I kept him on belay, but found out the traverse is not 80 feet. It’s more like 220 feet. We were forced to simul-climb the traverse without any protection. This was a little un-nerving.

 

We looked around to see if we could spot the anchors for pitch 16. The topo said it was an 80 feet pitch. So I took off on lead until I was out 100 feet. Then I looked around until I spotted the anchors. They are difficult to see. Kevin followed a few minutes later. I looked up and could see the anchors at the top of Pitch 17. They were glistening in the sunlight. (Note: If you look straight up the route they are 30 feet to the left).

 

Looking up at Pitch 17 from anchors.

 

 

Kevin took on the 200 foot run-out Pitch (17) with no protection. We had brought some small cams, but there were not placements. There is solid rock on this section and a bolt or 2 could have been placed. Oh well, what’s an alpine route without risk?

 

I lead pitch 18. Gotta put your climbing shoes back on. Not an easy route. Got half way up and put my climbing shoes back on.

 

Kevin followed me up. It was around 3:30 PM. We were both tired and new we had the hardest Pitches still in front of us. It would have been easy to turn around and call it a success, but I really wanted to try the next pitch. Pitch 19 is a 130 foot vertical 5.10c.

 

I loaded up on quick draws and started up the 17 bolt pitch. It was Awesome! This would be a 4 star route and climbed all the time if it weren’t 2000 feet off the ground.

 

 

Kevin followed up and we checked the clock. It was 4:30 and we had 4 Pitches to go. We both agreed we didn’t want to have to come back and make another attempt, so we pressed on. We were way to close to give up now. Kevin shot up Pitch 20. (Recommend that you combine 19 and 20 with a few slings. Will save mucho time)

 

Pitch 21 is the famous chimney pitch that everyone raves about. The only problem was the sun was in our faces and we couldn’t spot any bolts. We didn’t know if the route started in the right or left chimney. I started up the right chimney. Got up 50 feet and climbed back down. Pretty obvious that I was off route, I didn’t find a bolt after 50 feet of climbing.

 

I climbed down and started up the left chimney. I found a bolt about 20 feet up. This was a fun pitch with lots of rests. Kevin came up and could stop talking about how fun it was. We were now out of water. Two pitches to go and we couldn’t call it quits. I found 2 5 hour energy drinks in my back pack. We downed them and continued on.

 

Famous chimney Pitch 21, 180 feet, 15 bolts.

 

Kevin took off on the next 5.8, pitch 22. He had no issues and finished in great time. I came up quite excited to finish the route.

 

Kevin on Pitch 22.

 

Looking down the route from the top of Pitch 22.

 

 

The topo says Pitch 23 is a 5.9, but it felt as hard as the 5.10b I did earlier.

 

Pitch 23...The final one!

 

 

I summited and gave out a loud yell. I couldn’t believe we did it on the first try. Kevin came up and we called it quits at 6:24 PM.

 

Summit Photo!

 

 

We finished before our 6:30 deadline and on the first try.

 

We combined several rappels to make it 20 total rappels. 3 hours later and 1 full rappel in the dark, we were at the base. The red flags I left on the anchors made them easy to find. (Highly recommended!)

 

 

Several times during the rappel we could see spontaneous rock fall to the right of the route. Also we knocked several rocks down the route when we pulled our rope. I don’t recommend anyone climb this route with others below them. Seriously!

 

We finished at 9:38 PM. We gathered some well needed water from the waterfall and picked up our things.

 

 

We descended the trail in the dark. We made it back to the truck at 10:40 PM. I started to get a little worried. There is no cell phone reception and I remembered what I told my wife.

 

We made it off the dirt road and got cell reception at 11:10 PM. My wife was already calling my friends to see what she should do. OUCH! I called them back and said we were fine. We stopped by the local gas station and picked up some Gatorade and salty chips. Nothing better than salt after a 12 hour push!

 

I know it was a long trip report, but I help it assists anyone who wants to go out and try this route. It's a lot of fun! 2 thumbs up!

 

Gear Notes:

25 plus quickdraws, 6 slings, lots of fluids.

 

Approach Notes:

The Taylor River Bridge has been rebuilt. Take a right after you cross the bridge. However the road is closed. Walk a little over a mile on the road. Look for a large cairn on the left side of the road approx 300 yards after the large rick slide. Go up the trail until you come to the base. Cairns teh whole way.

[rock-ice]

Great write up. Thanks for posting.

[flashclimber]

Thanks it was a lot of fun.

[kevbone]

Sweet. I love this climb.

[ScottP]

Red flags are aid.

[goatboy]

Looks like a pile!

[denalidave]

Nice!