Neverland

[sandalsclub]

Has anybody had any problems with a follower falling near the beginning of the 2nd pitch on the 3-pitch sport climb at the far right? Like a dangerous fall or rope damage...

[RJRiha]

No. There is a trick to make the move to clear the small overlap. Once your second sees you make the move, it's unlikely that they would fall. I don't see where the fall would be dangerous, and don't remember anything that would cut a rope. I guess if they fell at the VERY beginning of the second pitch, it could be a swinging fall, but nobody is going to fall there.

 

Why do you ask? Bad experience?

[sandalsclub]

I ask because I witnessed a bad second fall. And I had a second fall and damage the rope to the core. I'm not convinced this pitch is safely protected and am info gathering. Thanks

[ilookeddown]

There is potential for rope damage if a second falls after cleaning the first draw while moving left. The second would pendulum and depending on how much rope was out, would be hanging in free air. (There would have to be a lot of rope out or the second was traversing too low) If this were to happen, the second would either have to jug the rope or be lowered the ground by the leader and have to re-climb the first pitch. The rope damage would occur on the lip of the ledge during the fall.

 

I don’t know what could be done other the changing the route. I guess just don’t fall or keep the second very tight for the first 10 or 15 feet of the pitch.

 

If you have any suggestions on a way to make it safer post them and it might be looked into by the person who put it the route up.

 

[RJRiha]

If I climb that thing again this year, I'll take a look, but I don't remember any edges that were sharp enough that concerned me.

 

A fall at the crux move (pulling the lip) should deposit the climber straight down. Was the rope getting drug over the edge during a pendulum fall (that caused the damage to the core)?

 

When I climbed it, I just didn't see a fall before the crux move as a concern, so I didn't recognize that as a problem. Maybe intimidating because you're stepping out over space, but actually making the move is quite easy. Getting over the lip, however, is not.

[Crillz]

You guys talking about the "Plank"?

 

I say leave it as is (I haven't climbed it in a year or more, but if the route is the same as it was originally, leave it be).

 

Some routes are just more dangerous than others. Plain and simple. Tons of routes have do not fall zones.

[ilookeddown]

Agreed.

[BirdDog]

I lead the 2nd pitch of Plank last night. A few tricky moves, but I didn't feel it was anything out the ordinary for a .10a route. I felt it was well protected for both the leader and follower. It is hard to here up there, maybe the OP had lot of slack in the system at the time in question; that could cause a pendulum off the edge and scrape the rope up.

[jon_masaya]

Yeah, just keep the line pretty taught. Shouldn't be too bad. If you're using a reverso or ATC guide you can always rig a prusik/z-pully setup and haul your second up. The traverse isn't too bad if it's been dry for a few days. I've done this climb in February with a small waterfall dripping down on your head at the belay at the top of the first pitch. (lol). Definitely makes it more interesting. Also, don't fall before the first bolt or that tree stump will rip you a new one! haha.

 

Anyone know any other multi-pitches at 32/38? I've been trying to find places to train people in bigger climbs w/o driving out to leavenworth or index...

[Rad]

Anyone know any other multi-pitches at 32/38? I've been trying to find places to train people in bigger climbs w/o driving out to leavenworth or index...

 

There are a few two pitch lines at the Gun Show. All are less than 60m total and so can be lead as one pitch if desired, and rapped with a single rope. There are two on Deception Wall, but probably not what you're looking for as they are harder than most newbie routes. They are: Pop Bottle (7) to Rat Face (10) to some 5.12. There is an unnamed 10ish thing that leads to Overture (11). A few multipitch lines at a new Far Side crag that fall in the 10/11 range.

 

Great Northern Slab is pretty darn friendly. Many variations possible.

 

Then there is the 26 pitch bolted line on the N fork road that shall remain unnamed so as to avoid waking sleeping trolls....

 

[dennyt]

I've heard one story of a second falling there & being hauled up with a z-pulley. Happened 1-2 summers ago.

 

PG rating and call it good?

[NateF]

I have not had a problem, but I remember thinking that would be a bad place to fall and flagging it in my brain so I would remember not to take someone on that route who I thought might fall there, or who would be spooked that it could be a problem to fall there. I think the route is plenty safe as long as both climbers are confident making the friction moves off the anchor.

 

Since the guidebook makes an effort to flag potential hazards, it would be consistent to note that hazard in an update of the guide. Plenty of hazards like that around, but a bit out of character for exit 38 - good reminder to keep the mental force field engaged especially with less experienced followers. Thanks for bringing it up sandals, sounds like there have been a few close calls, glad no one got hurt.

[sandalsclub]

Thanks for the responses. I agree that it's a fine pitch for the experienced climber and also flag worthy for the less experienced.

[Rad]

Does one need two ropes to get down? Likely to dry quickly or seep?

thx

[toproper]

Is there really a 3 pitch route at exit 38?? Seems like the 2 pitch routes are just barely 2 pitches.

[counterfeitfake]

Is there really a 3 pitch route at exit 38?? Seems like the 2 pitch routes are just barely 2 pitches.

 

Well, I was once at the belay atop P2 when my second fell at the start of the pitch, she couldn't get back on the route, and I lowered her to the ground, using one 60m rope...

[Rad]

So I got out and did the plank today. We decided to just take one rope and got down in two raps on a 60 (rap from top anchor over the edge to an anchor just under a large tree, then to the ground from there). If you had two 60s you could go all the way to the ground from the top anchor. The 10s on the vertical wall look like fun - will have to return for those.

[sandalsclub]

The 10s do look great. I did this route again yesterday. Like the first time my rope got stuck in the same place. Except the first time I used a runner and the second time I used a short draw. Stuck both times...

[RJRiha]

So I got out and did the plank today. We decided to just take one rope and got down in two raps on a 60 (rap from top anchor over the edge to an anchor just under a large tree, then to the ground from there). If you had two 60s you could go all the way to the ground from the top anchor. The 10s on the vertical wall look like fun - will have to return for those.

 

I'm surprised you got down from the second set of anchors with a 60. I did the same rap with a 70 after climbing the 10c (awesome climb if you link the first two pitches), and didn't think there was enough rope on the ground to indicate that a 60 would make it...

[sandalsclub]

My 60 made it.

Edited October 10, 2010 by sandalsclub

[ilookeddown]

The route was originally put in for the climber to rappel off the ledge to their left (on rappel) and down to the chains at the top of a slap near a tree. The route “I wanna go home” ends there. From there you can make it to the ground with a 60. It is not ideal b/c if you are not familiar with the area you would not know there is a rap station there. Anyway, when it was put in we just thought it was the easiest way for climbers to get down. This is explained in the latest X-38 guide book BTW.

 

Sorry I should have chimed in earlier on the subject.