Lucky Larry Posted July 1, 2010 Posted July 1, 2010 Whitewater road is clear and open. Snow is starting to melt out around lakes in Jeff Park, snow was firm in early a.m. Summit is covered in rime ice; as viewed from the road. I did not summit; however, I met a guy named Forrest (Turinthelost @ CC) at 7400ft, from Corvallis Or, who said he made the summit via Jeff glacier last weekend. He said it was an epic. They got a late start and temp was high; also, they got a rope stuck and left it behind on bollard they rapped off of. He said he might post. Quote
billcoe Posted July 1, 2010 Posted July 1, 2010 It's melting well at under 5,000 feet but looks like lots of snow higher up yet. Haydar and Shaun framing Mount Jefferson last Saturday. North Ridge route is near the left skyline for reference. Quote
billcoe Posted July 1, 2010 Posted July 1, 2010 Shit, that looked washed out once uploaded. Nother try. Little better. Hope that's not too large. There was pretty good rime on the Steel Cliffs on Hood last weekend, the summit here might be looking good for 2 tools too. Quote
111 Posted July 5, 2010 Posted July 5, 2010 I was up with forrest, and although we turned around at the base of the summit pinnacle, I would definitely recommend 2 tools for the route right now. Here's a TR from a climbing partner last weekend for more info: http://ccsadventures.zenfolio.com/p860122445 Quote
111 Posted July 5, 2010 Posted July 5, 2010 and here's my photos from the adventure : http://funholesunite.blogspot.com/2010/07/mt-jefferson-photos.html Quote
111 Posted July 6, 2010 Posted July 6, 2010 dont know, but I dont believe so. if he had I believe he would have come back to camp instead of descending to the south. Quote
Lucky Larry Posted July 6, 2010 Author Posted July 6, 2010 I was up with forrest, and although we turned around at the base of the summit pinnacle, I would definitely recommend 2 tools for the route right now. Here's a TR from a climbing partner last weekend for more info: http://ccsadventures.zenfolio.com/p860122445 great site photos Quote
Lucky Larry Posted July 6, 2010 Author Posted July 6, 2010 day#2 well, I'm home after getting blown out of my site at 2am this morning at 7800ft. I was in a BD firstlight tent, single wall job, w/2 poles. Let's just say that I felt like I was wrestling w Benp inside a balloon that was collapsing, and u already know who was wining. Needless to say, the tent brakes down fast in the wind-which is great; putting it up in it is another story: not good in wind blast. As I'm wrestling with it I'm trying to get things in order to make the great escape, and still can't find my f'in headlamp. Note to self: always have things in order on the boat. As I descend, with crampons and poles, i take my time so as not to be blown down/trip the kind'a soft snow slope when I hear and see something go skidding buy--it's my tent pole. Now I'm traversing to the opposite shore, and remind myself not to to drop too much while I'm traversing. A few minutes later and boom--it's there right in front of me--duh. The wind is still blowing when I reach Jeff park, I haven't slept much the past two nights so I call it a day and head for the TH. Day #1 made it to the campsite w a little wind that night; not bad. On the way up: tell 2 guys at TH they won't need snow shoes and they thank me, pass 2 guys coming down who said they got to the top of Jeff glacier and bailed due to 2ft. powder snow that they said may slide. At 2 am I here a party of 3 tromping by. I keep waking and looking out to see their progress. At 4am I decide to run after them; I mean go up the same way. On the way I have to do a wardrobe change. I pull my boot off to get a pant shell off because I stupidly did not bring the ones I always bring: the zip offs. Now my boot is starting to slide away to the terminus of Jeff glacier--somehow I grab it. I catch up to, I mean run across, the party of 3 coming down from a saddle at 9K ft: it's a guide from timberline and 2 clients and he remarks how beautiful it is-- I agree . He tells me it's windy at the saddle. I get up there, sit down, retie my boots and get the heck out of that wind tunnel while my snot is flying everywhere; I don't even look around because I'm cold now and head back to camp, have some food and head back out to explore up the N. ridge. I work up the ridge to about 8400 ft and the wind is back, take a picture and explore a little to the east and down where I find a future potential camp. Meet this guy that is out scrambling when I start talking his ear off about climbing and he's not even a climber. I apologize. You meet the nicest people sometimes.Back at the TH my car had a flat; fortunately the spare worked. Quote
billcoe Posted July 7, 2010 Posted July 7, 2010 Damn Larry, nice mini-epic and good on you for getting on it....but it sounds like a....(wait for it....) WARDROBE MALFUNCTION! omg! HBOLY SHIT, i'VE CLIMBED WITH THAT GUY...aDAM...aDAM WHASHISNAME....ERR...aDAM ...YEAH!!! Look! 3 days ago in the Gunks.... Quote
Lucky Larry Posted July 8, 2010 Author Posted July 8, 2010 Damn Larry, nice mini-epic and good on you for getting on it....but it sounds like a....(wait for it....) WARDROBE MALFUNCTION! omg! HBOLY SHIT, i'VE CLIMBED WITH THAT GUY...aDAM...aDAM WHASHISNAME....ERR...aDAM ...YEAH!!! Look! 3 days ago in the Gunks.... yep' not to mention I had a flat when i got back to the car, but a good spare;which may not have been a good thing cause I almost drove off the road while dozing. Quote
TurinTheLost Posted July 9, 2010 Posted July 9, 2010 Hey, Larry & Candy. I ended up descending via the Milk Creek Glacier. We decided it was too late to decent back down the Jeff Glacier and instead of bivying until it got cold we just went down. Then I came back up on tues to grab my stuff. Thats when I met Larry. Been to busy to post a TR doubt If I will but it was an amazing climb. Unfortunately the people I was climbing with had a tent up and went back to get their stuff on monday and got within 300 ft to see it blow away in front of their faces! They recovered most of their stuff but returned with a badly damaged tent. It was good climbing with you Candy I've got some good pics I've got to send you. Quote
111 Posted July 11, 2010 Posted July 11, 2010 Mountain Rule number 3: in the mountains, always stake/guyline out your tent like a hurricane is coming, even if the weather is nice at the time! You just never know! Quote
MtnManMatt Posted July 11, 2010 Posted July 11, 2010 Climbed Jeff Park Glacier to the summit on 7/8-9. Conditions were great overall, however the warm temps (~90 in town) made for soft snice (good pickets though), ankle+ deep postholing in the late am/pm, and soft snow avalanches on the eastern aspects. We also saw evidence of a hard slab avalanche (~12" crown) just below the summit ridge on the uppermost part of the Russell Glacier, and consequently opted for the Whitewater descent. This was my first time up to the top so I'm not sure how this season's conditions compare to an average year. Either way climbing the summit ridge/pinacle was spectacular! We also removed some gear from the summit on our way down - let me know if you want it back, otherwise we'll "recycle" it... Quote
King Beatard Posted July 11, 2010 Posted July 11, 2010 Damn Larry, nice mini-epic and good on you for getting on it....but it sounds like a....(wait for it....) WARDROBE MALFUNCTION! omg! HBOLY SHIT, i'VE CLIMBED WITH THAT GUY...aDAM...aDAM WHASHISNAME....ERR...aDAM ...YEAH!!! Look! 3 days ago in the Gunks.... Thanks Bill but you're too kind. Just bought my plane ticket to PDX. I'll b around from 7/18 - 8/4. We gotta plan a day to do "The Witches Chimney aka Upskirt" and I'd like to do a day at Gothic Rocks to just climb if that's allowed - maybe camp there. Quote
billcoe Posted July 11, 2010 Posted July 11, 2010 I quit calling it Gothic, as no one else was calling it that. I still call it Cathedral forgetting the new name which I actually like better. I saw JT the other day, he was all ecstatic on "Coethedral". Cracks me up. I was out there yesterday with 2 fine gentlemen and they started looking at and talking about the upper pitches to your route: I explained that you had both claimed the FA of that route, and that although I'd told you then that it was first come first served please stay off it so you can do it:-) Almost in harmony their eyes started drifting up the hill to the Steeple. Thanks for the heads up on the dates, are you up in Washington doing real climbing or is that all PDX? I'll PM you some ideas but of course you can climb and camp there. Lets coordinate it so no one gets killed. ps, update: the Dragons Spine top was ticked for the first time yesterday and the Salathe Highway also saw it's 4th ascent with 2 new #2 cam placements dug out and discovered. I missed the Highway climb, having rapped down and hiked out. I was back in the car nappy nap about then. Got a shot or 2 with the camera I can post later. I've finished digging the driveway here and at some point the procrastination needs to end here and I need to go pour some cement so Jasmine is happy when she gets back....shit, some rest day, 18 60lb sacs of cement to mix and put down. Send me the dates you are here, looking forward to it. Quote
King Beatard Posted July 12, 2010 Posted July 12, 2010 I liked the name Gothic for the area but the people have spoken. Will the whole area be called Coethedral now or will there still be a different name for the area? Who had the fourth ascent of Salathe Highway? After our ascent with Ujahn, I heard Plaidman did it with Rhonda and Rick which is very cool. Thanks for saving the chimney route for me up there but I must say I was a little sad to see the other chimney get ticked - I guess that's actually good bc I can climb it when I come out. Quote
Lucky Larry Posted November 23, 2010 Author Posted November 23, 2010 (edited) well, I'm getting more experienced, maybe summit the next time if I'm not too old. Edited November 23, 2010 by oldlarry Quote
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