[TR] Exfoliation Dome - Westward Ho 6/26/2010

[Pilchuck71]

Trip: Exfoliation Dome - Westward Ho

 

Date: 6/26/2010

 

Trip Report:

After the last two trips to Darrington dodging raindrops and beginning climbs on rainy wet slabs, it was with much joy that I was able to get out this past weekend in some perfect weather to try a new for me route on the Dome.

Westward Ho is a fantastic route and I highly recommend it.

We missed a little of the first pitch by taking advantage of the nice big grassy bench to climbers right of the real start after taking a break from the "warm up" on the sidewalk. From here we traversed up and left to meet up with the route at the top of the first pitch. I was able to climb half of the real first pitch by traversing over to and following the bolt line.

I led the 5.8 second pitch and was a little confused, as the topo showed 5 or 6 draws and I ran out about two thirds up the pitch, lucky for me I had a few mountain runners and some creative thinking to get me to the belay.

Smedley took the third and did a fantastic job cruising the pitch.

I took the fourth and really enjoyed the heck out of it.

This was some absolutely fantastic slab climbing!

From the top of the fourth Smedley took the lead and went a ways to one of the rap stations and we switched again. The pitches from here were short and there was some routefinding challenge but I thought the climbing was good, easy and fun. The upper pitches are definitely different in style than the lower four.

We topped out on the summit ridge, sunburned, tired, thirsty and full of smiles.

We discussed going the last bit to the top, but decided to enjoy a "summit" beer where we were, relax a bit and then begin the many rappels that lay ahead of us.

 

Some pics -

 

Clouds in the valley on the way up the sidewalk

 

The boys on the sidewalk

 

The view up the sidewalk to the route

 

Nice views and flowers on the way up

 

Green Giant Buttress

 

The clouds were making for some interesting views-

 

 

Starting out on the real climbing

 

View down from top of second pitch

 

View down from the top of the third pitch

 

View up the route from top of the third pitch

 

View down from the top of the fourth pitch

 

A couple of fisheye shots from up on the route

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Pitches 1-4: 10 draws and a few small tcu's

Pitches 5-8: Small rack to 2-2.5" and longer runners

 

Approach Notes:

Get on the sidewalk and begin your warm up.

Save some leg strength for the return trip...sheesh!

Edited June 29, 2010 by Pilchuck71

[genepires]

as usual, nice photos.

[mattp]

To reach the summit from the ridge below where Westward Ho tops out there is a short direct pitch with a scary move on it or you can make a very cool detour around right on a ledge that leads to the north ridge. Grab the rose bushes and go.

[Pilchuck71]

@Matt - The detour you speak of looked really cool, we thought about it. The direct route looked good after the first few moves, but man those first few moves looked hard.

 

@Gene - Thanks.

[benmurphy]

awesome dude! love those cloud photos! i was out at spring on saturday and 3 o clock on sunday...good times!

[Otto]

Good stoke for more slab pitches, thanks!

[mattp]

Pilchuck,

That scary step up onto that direct finish is not actually hard but you sure wouldn't want to fall there. Run for the roses.

[Pilchuck71]

Hey B -

I was wondering what you have been up to.

I knew I should have given you a call - we ended up staying the night at big road camp at the end of the sidewalk.

Would have been a sweet party had you made it.

 

[Pilchuck71]

you sure wouldn't want to fall there.

 

That is exaclty what Smedley and I were thinking...I believe one of us actually uttered those precise words.

Next time I will take the ledge and tag the top.

It was fun to get a look over to that side of the peak. A first for me.