Jake_Gano Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 I caught these riding a red-eye from Anchorage to Chicago over Christmas '08. Not a phenomenal photo but it shows many of the big south side features. [img:left]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4718826824_4934b06f74_b.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4718825542_18ccbefdcd_b.jpg[/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Nice pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 [img:left]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4718825542_18ccbefdcd_b.jpg[/img] great photos, jake - thanks for posting 'em. hummingbird: left; warbler: centre. so when's somebody gonna get their stones together and climb the direct face right of the hummingbird, or that face right of the warbler? people were looking at things like that 20-30 years ago, and while they are both very dangerous projects, considering what's being done at lightning speed recently on denali (not to mention the himalaya), surely it's possible to flash up stuff like these routes quickly enough to make them worth of consideration? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoJo Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 The face right of the Warbler got climbed this year by some Japanese climbers. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10s/newswire-logan-giri-giri There will be a complete Mountain Profile in Alpinist 31. It's at the printer right now! JoJo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Water Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 got these back in the late 90s on a flight outta ANC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoran Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Don, please, don't rule out old "golden age" style attempts on South Face of Logan yet! :-) Just kidding! I got your point. We mortals, need visionaries like Giri-Giri Boys, and Colin (and you, and Jo-Jo). We need to read those unbelievable stories while sitting in the office and dreaming to have the same gift like all of you. However, there are some people who are excellent climbers but not in the zone of fast and light. I have seen them last month! I looked down from the plane to the base camp of the French military team. Couldn't see them on the ridge. I noticed boot track. They had about 3 tons of gear and food deposited below the Hummingbird. Some of them are less known European stars like guide Caporal Chef PELLISSIER Manu. Manu is a fantastic climber. Those guys are serious. They couldn't finish the climb. Probably, because their style is not fast and light their attempt of this extraordinary ridge is not well published or discussed. Their story will disappear in some of the Internet holes. :-) But it's an good attempt regardless of style. Whoever steps into Logan's South Face have my respect. Jack Tackle started the line and Giri-Giri team finished it. This is Jacks accomplishment too. He stepped into it and I respect him so much because of that! Ridge is really something! Impressive. Complex, broken rock, overhanging ice, double corniced ... I heard that people need shovel on some sections to shovel at the middle, because on left and right you have cornice. Weather is scary, and also climb involve physical hard work not only climbing. Logan's South Face is very scary place to be and Hummingbird Ridge is brilliant climb. http://www.gmhm.terre.defense.gouv.fr/suivi.php?id=306 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoran Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 (edited) Also, heard comments about incredible discrepancy in amount of gear and supplies French team and Giri-Giri Boys airlifted from the Silver City air strip. Giri-Giri Boys had just bare minimum even tough they climbed in April/early May when is much colder. Just a two small packs on this route. They took a high risk but made a good judgment. I can't wait to see who will venture into terrain right from the Hummingbird ridge. It will be a great accomplishment. Edited June 24, 2010 by Zoran Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 The face right of the Warbler got climbed this year by some Japanese climbers. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10s/newswire-logan-giri-giri There will be a complete Mountain Profile in Alpinist 31. It's at the printer right now! JoJo hey, thanks for the update jo-jo - i had missed that. this is EXACTLY the kind of climbing that ought to be done on Logan these days. not that success will come easy, and there'll be plenty of failures too, but the routes are there to be done - it just takes vision, boldness, fitness, skill, daring, etc, etc - and luck! and back to my original post: who's gonna tackle the SE face of the main summit? Joe Bajan had a plan 30 years ago... I remember staring at photos and piecing together a line that looked survivable, provided you could get onto the face and up a couple thousand feet without getting smoked by an avalanche on the approach... Elzinga thought about it... I think Barry did the same... I'm sure lots of others that weren't in my 'circle' had similar ideas... point is, Logan hasn't seen the kind of intense focus that Denali has, so there are challenges remaining that are unimaginable elsewhere. and with the level of skill and speed that modern young guys climb with, these things are do-able. I really look forward to seeing your Alpinist profile - that might be exactly the stimulus that's needed for an outburst of amazing climbs. p.s. jo-jo i don't know about you, but i reckon Logan is a considerably more serious undertaking than Denali. worse rock, poorer weather, much more remote, nobody else around, no chance of rescue... if you get fzcked there, you're TRULY fzcked! Logan's South Face is very scary place to be and Hummingbird Ridge is brilliant climb. yah zoran, made me pretty humble. i was happy enough to walk away and go climb the east ridge. (which, btw, is absolutely outSTANDing!) cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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