aclark20 Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 Hey, if anyone heads up guye peak via the NW ramp, and happens to find & and free a stuck rope, I'd be grateful if you could grab it for me. It's in the scramble section, and you can easily make it unroped to the top of it. It's probably around 4500' or so, and at a rap station. We had to bail off the ramp last night, the rope got stuck close to midnight. we decided to leave it vs. scramble back up in the dark... If you happen upon it, it'd be awesome if you could get it back to me! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 Do tell . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aclark20 Posted June 15, 2010 Author Share Posted June 15, 2010 Lost rope is home, went back and got it today. I'll post a TR later with details of our epic route finding fail..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtguide Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Usually a factor of significant remoteness is at least one requirement before you can justifiably call something "epic". Other factors can be severe conditions, injury, extreme technical difficulty, running out of food and water, etc. and, several of these factors combined. Thus, Joe Simpson's ordeal on Siula Grande=Certified Gold Standard Class A Epic; stuck rope on Guye Peak, pleasant weather, a bit late getting back to the car= prrrob-ab-lee not. First ascent of E. Face of the Moose's Tooth, Alaska Range, by Jim Bridwell and Mugs Stump, 37 pitches, 16 days on the route, serious conditions, front-pointing on paper-thin verglas, sparse protection, the last four days of strenuous, extremely difficult climbing and final descent on little else but coffee and cigarettes, one # 1 small wire the only anchor for the final 300' rappel, ( AND they nonetheless managed to document the climb by beautifully photographing every last pitch)= Certified Gold Standard Class A-/B+ Epic; back to the car by 1:30-2AM from Guye Peak = Hmmm... Dunder-headedness may also be a contributing factor, but climbing within sight and sound of a major highway, and within cell phone or walkie-talkie range, would require far more than route-finding problems, a rating of "scramble", getting caught by darkness, and a stuck rope to qualify as "epic". There have to be some standards, some respect for the term. However, I wasn't there, was I; so, will wait to see the trip report... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 If I'm not home sleeping on a mattress, its an epic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raindawg Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Usually a factor of significant remoteness is at least one requirement before you can justifiably call something "epic". Other factors can be severe conditions, injury, extreme technical difficulty, running out of food and water, etc. and, several of these factors combined. Thus, Joe Simpson's ordeal on Siula Grande=Certified Gold Standard Class A Epic; stuck rope on Guye Peak, pleasant weather, a bit late getting back to the car= prrrob-ab-lee not. First ascent of E. Face of the Moose's Tooth, back to the car by 1:30-2AM from Guye Peak = Hmmm... [blah,blah] Dunder-headedness may also be a contributing factor, but climbing within sight and sound of a major highway, and within cell phone or walkie-talkie range, would require far more than route-finding problems, a rating of "scramble", getting caught by darkness, and a stuck rope to qualify as "epic". Dude....what's up with the above?....was that really necessary? What the heck! The term "epic" is utterly relative to the situation and the people involved. If the guy thinks he had an "epic", he had an epic. There have to be some standards, some respect for the term... However, I wasn't there, was I; so, will wait to see the trip report.. And then you can form a review committee of your "peers" and issue a ruling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 The OP didn't call it "epic," the subject was changed by Heinrich, who added the thumbs-up. Then the OP referred to his "epic route-finding fail" with an obvious sense of humor. Give the guy a break, shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 the sophmores i teach have an entirely different definition of epic that any so far posited here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aclark20 Posted June 15, 2010 Author Share Posted June 15, 2010 haha, It's true I never called it an epic. It was truly more of a route finding issue that caused a late return more than anything. Whatever you want to call it, we had to scramble down in the dark, got home late, and had to return the next day to get the ropes. It was more "epic" than most climbs usually are, but you can certainly feel free to call it whatever you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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