What is a good beginner ice climb?

[Josh Lewis]

I am wondering what a good beginner ice climb would be. I have much experience on steep snow and such, and want to take the next step. A friend recommended top ropping the Baker Seracs.

[summitchaserCJB]

Your friend is right from what I've heard. Top-roping anything is a good idea if you have a rope-gun. I wouldn't even think about leading for at least a season.

[Josh Lewis]

So I should wait a while?

[keenwesh]

now that it's summer I'd climb rocks. next winter go out and climb something like the N face of Chair with someone who knows what they're doing. move on from there.

[counterfeitfake]

Toproping in the seracs is a great idea. I'd wait a little while for some more snow to melt, once the holes are all open you can walk around pretty safely. I have found conditions pretty good by late July. Make sure you know how to build a really good anchor and then have fun.

[Choada_Boy]

Cover your anchor screws in snow so they don't melt out in the sun.

[t_rutl]

Cover your anchor screws in snow so they don't melt out in the sun.

 

+1

 

seracs are a great start J. good time and place to work on the skills in a pretty controlled environment. that and aren't distracted by the bitter cold of winter and can take more time to focus than try and stay warm.

[kayfire]

Despite the fact that I do it every winter, I think that ice climbing sucks; f-ing cold, shit falling on your head, dangerous, etc. Don't be lured to the dark side--stick with rock climbing.

[selkirk]

If your looking for summer-ish practice you can also go dry tooling out at E38 or at the SR900 crag south of Issaquah. All top rope-able. It's not ice but it'll certainly teach you how to be delicate with your tools and crampons which in my limited experience carried over pretty well onto ice.

Have fun!

 

 

ps.

With regard to ice climbers, you know it's pretty bad when other climbers think you're nuts

[Josh Lewis]

Despite the fact that I do it every winter, I think that ice climbing sucks; f-ing cold, shit falling on your head, dangerous, etc. Don't be lured to the dark side--stick with rock climbing.

 

Should I just stick to steep snow that requires ice tools? I absolutely love the feeling of steep snow, but believe I can go a step further by this point. I love cold, for some reason I get the feeling I might like it better than rock climbing.

[summitchaserCJB]

I thought I was a hardman too Josh but sometimes you can get over your head. All you need is some exposure and death runouts to help you reconsider what you are "comfortable" with. It's one thing being 10 feet off the deck and another 2,000 feet off the deck. It's much easier to get over your head in ice climbing IMO.

[Josh Lewis]

I'm not as interested in waterfall ice as much as this kind of stuff:

 

Ice Cliff Glacier on Mount Stuart

 

Sure I don't plan on going up it without some practice, might have to wait til next year. The route is on the left of the photo and goes up to the ridge and then is a scamble on the other side.

[summitchaserCJB]

Ya go for Sherpa Glacier first. I just ticked it last weekend. It's a seriously great climb, with enough exposure to keep you on your toes.

[summitchaserCJB]

BTW- if you get some practice in I'll hit up the ICG with you.

[Josh Lewis]

Ya go for Sherpa Glacier first. I just ticked it last weekend. It's a seriously great climb, with enough exposure to keep you on your toes.

 

I will admit, that was my alternative route I wanted to do this year, had it planned for the decent route, but if I should hault on the ICG then alright, Sherpa should be a go.

[summitchaserCJB]

I would honestly. I've got a fair amount of experience on ice and Sherpa was a decent enough pill to swallow. It's not just the grade (like how steep it is) alone you have to contend with. Elevation, fitness, your partner's fitness/mental condition (is he psyched out), pro, weather, slushy snow conditions.

[Josh Lewis]

I'm considering brinign an ice tool and an ice axe on the sherpa glacier if thats the case.

 

I'm not as much of a fan of this kind of mountaineering:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1288/4682394626_a6979c60b7_b.jpg

 

It's not that I'm bad at self belay, I would rather have the luxury of using an ice tool up the slope for extra support. Unless it's not steep enough.

[summitchaserCJB]

Well you might want to. I didn't and was fine. But you do have to be good at self belay cause there are a few spots where you just "don't fall".

[summitchaserCJB]

The reason I would is because I spent a fair amount of time in the "dagger" position on my ice ax with my other hand pressed against the snow. If you're doing that, a second tool would help you.

[Josh Lewis]

I will admit I have had my share of steep scary snow slopes were a fall would create an injury or worse (ok I'm softening up how it was, it was pretty bad). I would say I'm pretty good at self belay, but if I know that a slope is going to be extra steep, sure I don't need an extra tool, but it would make things easier, then I treat my ice axe like an ice tool, or atleast thats how I hear you do it.

[summitchaserCJB]

Ya that's one way. There's more than one way to skin a cat for sure.

[G-spotter]

Summary

 

I masturbated last weekend, so here's a bunch of sex advice for you

[summitchaserCJB]

? What did you do last weekend pee spotter?

[summitchaserCJB]

More like I went climbing last weekend, here is some beta on that exact climb. apples-apples.

[Josh Lewis]

More like I went climbing last weekend, here is some beta on that exact climb. apples-apples.

 

Or more like Skittles to Skittles.