Oregon Climbers

[Zenolith]

Hey,

I have trouble finding partners in Oregon who want to travel north to Washington to climb ice. I am in Eugene and would really like to meet up with people to go spend a couple days climbing ice or icy peaks. Any takers?

Also, some one suggested climbing the N. Face of Hood (the couloir right of the cleaver) or the Elliott Headwall. Any info on those climbs like; fixed anchors, how to protect, etc?

[DPS]

Fixed anchors on North Face of Hood? Bah, hah, hah, hah. Oh, were you being serious?

[erik]

yeah man! i put brand new fixe 2 footers inlast winter. it sucks since hood is a wilderness area. a 2 foot hand drilled holes are a real pain. i also spaced out the hangers for some sporting runout, about 3 feet apart, you know for sick whipper!

this winters project is to retro bolt liberty ridge. does anyone have a 20ft bit that will fit my pika?

 

seriously dude! ha ha ha ha ha

 

[Zenolith]

dps and eric,

You guys are so studly! I'm sure you're studly enough to know that there are places on Hood (leuthold comes to mind, although the two pins I saw were probably not for a rapp), and other peaks, where people have left pins for their own rapp which are sometimes useful when a later party rapps the route. Mt. Hood has not always been a wilderness area and many pins have been placed there. Some are left behind. I was not asking if it was bolted for the ascent, but I get the feeling neither of you have been up those routes anyway since you both act like such snobs.

[erik]

probably. but i wouldn't consider a couple of old pitons on a cascade volcano a fixed anchor. due to super crappy rock and so much freeze/thaw that they are subjected to. i'll place my own. the leuthold is a fun short route, but very simuli climbable. no anchors needed.

"when in doubt run it out."

the north face of hood is pretty bold in the winter, i am a huge wuss when it comes to climbing steeeep cascade snow, so believe what you want bro.

if you want i'll take you climbing in washington anytime you want.

[rbw1966]

I was gonna join the dogpile but I'm not very studly so I won't.

In any event, pins on Hood are not very trustworthy--as a matter of fact I wouldn't trust any pin on any of the cascade peaks I've been on. Just too manky.

Be careful on Eliot--if you need to ask how to protect it then it might be a bit over your head. Depends on the conditions though. We did Cooper Spur a month ago and had to do some sketchy mixed climbing due to low snow cover--in a place that is normally a walkup.

Good luck finding a partner. If you see any pins on Hood let me know where they are--I'd like to check them out.

[Zenolith]

My post seems to have a lot of people's panties in a bunch!

 

Its amazing how a simple request for information (the kind one finds in some guide books) has everyone whipping it out with a ruler... The people with big ones either kept quiet or emailed...

[erik]

i don't wear underwear.

people who climb routes like that don't ask how to protect it.

[mikeadam]

##

[This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 05-15-2001).]

[erik]

not at all since we had left the subject long ago. i just figured out for myself.

******ATTENTION ALL****TOPIC CHANGE*********

when doing your posting click on the smiles legend. ta da.

p.s. zenolith nothing personal.

[Maurice]

Just to get a little more off subject.

On utilise quoi comme sous vetements sur la face nord d'Hood?

Commentaires?

[Zenolith]

Maurice,

I wear a one-peice tiger striped leotard under my clothes.

[erik]

maurice

the south face is nice and straight forward. no problems to climb it in most situations. thuough get there super early to avoid all the people everywhere on the mountain. all times of the year. and somebody chopped the bolts above the schund'.

 

[Maurice]

Erik

I'm not following the relation between my question and your response.

Are you promoting divergence from the subject?

[erik]

always

[This message has been edited by erik (edited 12-30-2000).]