pac man Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 Trip: Rabbit Ears - Standard Date: 5/19/2010 Trip Report: Sorry guys, I couldn't figure out how to post a TR in the Gorge section, so I guess I'll put it here. More info including approach note can be found HERE Rabbit Ears was a perfect dichotomy of blaring-balmy temperatures on the hike in and a cool downpour on the way out, easy climbing that somehow grabbed our full attention, and an adventure climb that really only required clipping bolts and fixed pro. It was interesting to have so many unique combinations in one climb. After wallowing our way through the slop on the trail to the Pig Ears... I mean… Rabbit Ears, and sweating our asses off, we reached welcomed wind gusts on the ridge between the larger rock outcropping above Rabbit Ears and Rabbit Ears. After wrestling through a tree, I led the first pitch up the chossy moss fest. A tree on the left can be slung near the top, but by that time I should have just gone to the anchor. Following the path of least resistance is the only way I found the anchor, which was hidden on the other side of the ridge. Looking down pitch 1 My partner came up and quickly swung leads, traversing right of a rock outcropping and quickly clipped a bolt on the other side. Traverse around rock outcropping on pitch 2 After he went up a “steep” section of moss he slung a tree before a steep section of crumbly rock. He clipped into an intermediary anchor at the saddle between the two Rabbit Ears. Pitch 2 As I followed the pitch, he quickly realized that he gave up the only rock climbing (sucker… I mean that sucks) of the whole adventure by missing the last piece of pro approximately 8 ft from where he was. I headed up the last bit, being forced to the left due ¼ inch layer of crumbly rock covering the right side. While taking a short break on the top and having a couple swigs, we quickly realized why the wind was picking up: a storm was making its way through the Gorge rather quickly where the river was hazy from rain. We booked it down with a 30 m rappel/traverse back to the first anchor, a 25 m rappel to the saddle above the approach gully, and a 30 m rappel down the loose gully. With perfect timing it began sprinkling once we finished rappelling. We bush wacked our way back to the trail and wallowed a little more in the slop back to the car, while enjoying the rain, and possibly a couple more swigs. All in all, it was an enjoyable trip that was much less adventurous than expected, but the conditions grabbed our attention. Gear Notes: Anchors Rope 3-4 long slings Possibly 2 cordelettes to be used as extremely long slings (instead of 2 of the long slings) Possibly small rack, if you can find placements (I found one just shy of the top) Approach Notes: See Website above Quote
Corduroy Man Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 Nice! I will have to go check this out! Rock on! Quote
LostCamKenny Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 adventure climbing is best! isn't all climbing adventure? i thought it was - maybe i'm wrong... nice steve! you and melissa do that together or did you cheat on her(with a different climbing partner, i mean...) Quote
pac man Posted May 21, 2010 Author Posted May 21, 2010 Shhh... Kenny. It was with a different climber. Quote
mountainsloth Posted May 23, 2010 Posted May 23, 2010 bouldering at the gym is not adventurous. clipping bolts that are spaced 6 feet apart at a crag that takes 5 minutes to walk to is not adventurous. by adventure climbing I mean it is off the beaten path, not the best rock, a bit obscure, and has a sizable approach... to put it roughly. this is all IMHO of course. Quote
summitchaserCJB Posted May 23, 2010 Posted May 23, 2010 Like doing "The Pineapple" next to the Tooth in Winter in the dark in boots. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted May 23, 2010 Posted May 23, 2010 Like doing "The Pineapple" next to the Tooth in Winter in the dark in boots. which you have no doubt done, huh chaser? Quote
LostCamKenny Posted May 23, 2010 Posted May 23, 2010 bouldering at the gym is not adventurous. clipping bolts that are spaced 6 feet apart at a crag that takes 5 minutes to walk to is not adventurous. for some that is the definition of adventure. Quote
summitchaserCJB Posted May 23, 2010 Posted May 23, 2010 Kenny- Busted. That's why I used it as an example. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.