large cliffs SE of Cle Elum, and carnival crack

[markwebster]

As you pass Cle Elum, heading East on I90 there are some large cliffs off in the distance to the south. They look to be 5 miles south and they completely dominate the horizon. They must be half a mile across. They look like a series of rocky gullies but seem steep enough to have climbing. Anyone been there?

 

In other breaking news, I got spanked on Carnival Crack, 10d offwidth this weekend in Leavenworth. I could stick in it using a handstack and a knee bar, but it was so overhanging I couldn't release my handstack without falling out. Anyone know of any videos demonstrating 5 inch overhanging splitter technique?

 

It took a number 5 camalot down low, and a 3 bigbro but I needed a 6 camalot, or larger. Me leading, Jim P. Belaying. I got my gear out by downclimbing...fun stuff!

 

[Dirtyleaf]

You might be talking about Peoh Point. If it is, it will be a lot less exciting when you get up close. I used to live in the area for some years. Felt the same way and had to check it. NOT steep, REALLY chossy. But, you get to pass underneath the powerlines to get there. Your hair will stand up on end. Exciting.

[G-spotter]

I could stick in it using a handstack and a knee bar, but it was so overhanging I couldn't release my handstack without falling out.

 

how many situps can you do? 0?

[markwebster]

I've done 50 situps a day for 30 years, but that didn't allow me to not fall out.

 

Have you tried it?

 

My knee bar was only good for balance. The hands were what held me in. That crack is a demon.

 

A rematch is in the offing. I may have to break down and top rope it.

[RJRiha]

I've done 50 situps a day for 30 years, but that didn't allow me to not fall out.

 

Have you tried it?

 

My knee bar was only good for balance. The hands were what held me in. That crack is a demon.

 

A rematch is in the offing. I may have to break down and top rope it.

 

Did you try shoving your leg as far as in the crack as possible, then pull your foot out, forcing your thigh to expand in the crack? If the knee was only good for balance, more thigh in the crack should do the trick. Then let go of the stack and use your abs to hold you up.

 

I've never done Carnival, but I've played around with wide cracks and the levitation technique really does work!

[Frankazoid]

those cliffs are mank yo. seen'em...

[MarkMcJizzy]

 

As you pass Cle Elum, heading East on I90 there are some large cliffs off in the distance to the south. They look to be 5 miles south and they completely dominate the horizon. They must be half a mile across. They look like a series of rocky gullies but seem steep enough to have climbing.

 

Probably outcrops of the Easton schist, the same rock that makes up Mount Shuksan.

 

 

those cliffs are mank yo

 

That is what we found out

[Crillz]

I've done 50 situps a day for 30 years, but that didn't allow me to not fall out.

 

Have you tried it?

 

My knee bar was only good for balance. The hands were what held me in. That crack is a demon.

 

A rematch is in the offing. I may have to break down and top rope it.

 

Did you try shoving your leg as far as in the crack as possible, then pull your foot out, forcing your thigh to expand in the crack? If the knee was only good for balance, more thigh in the crack should do the trick. Then let go of the stack and use your abs to hold you up.

 

I've never done Carnival, but I've played around with wide cracks and the levitation technique really does work!

 

"Similar" to what he said.

I think it's called a knee-lock. You pull your foot outside of the crack and it makes it super secure. You can remove your hands using this technique. It works for me for about #5 and #6 C4 size.

 

Check out widefetish.com

[markwebster]

thanks for the link Crillz, I watched this video and learned a little that might be usefull. Carnival looks steeper and harder, but it might work.

 

http://www.fishproducts.com/movies/bad_ass_momma.mov

 

You may have to wait for it to load. To lead it I think I'm gonna have to buy one of those valley giant cams.

[Crillz]

You may have to wait for it to load. To lead it I think I'm gonna have to buy one of those valley giant cams.

 

$$$

 

I may have to check out this crack next time I'm in the area. How's the setup for a TR? Biggest pro I have is #5 BD.

[RJRiha]

You may have to wait for it to load. To lead it I think I'm gonna have to buy one of those valley giant cams.

 

$$$

 

I may have to check out this crack next time I'm in the area. How's the setup for a TR? Biggest pro I have is #5 BD.

 

Walk around and there is a 2 bolt anchor. It's a bit difficult to find at first, so it helps if there is someone on the ground at the base to yell up at you. Just look for the most exposed portion on the top of the formation, and that's where the anchor is.

 

I didn't try climbing it though, I had a right knee injury, and realized when looking up at the thing, that I would have to do levitation moves with my right knee in the crack. I couldn't help but go check it out...it looks quite tempting from the road.

[markwebster]

Top roping is for sissies :-)

 

I can afford the cam...need to buy myself something to make up for all this overtime I've been working.

 

I'm gonna figure that crack out. That baby is goin' down.

[keenwesh]

wish me luck, I'm going to try it this saturday. I need to build up my wide crack resume...

[BirdDog]

Did you try shoving your leg as far as in the crack as possible, then pull your foot out, forcing your thigh to expand in the crack? If the knee was only good for balance, more thigh in the crack should do the trick. Then let go of the stack and use your abs to hold you up.

 

Oh wow, that sounds like fun. And if the knee lock doesn't work you can try cramming your head in the crack and giving it a twist - a skull lock; then you can let loose on the hand stack and wave to Mom. There's a reason someone called this "carnival crack"

[RJRiha]

Top roping is for sissies :-)

And people that don't have "gear to 8 inches".

[Off_White]

Carnival looks steeper and harder, but it might work.

 

http://www.fishproducts.com/movies/bad_ass_momma.mov

 

You must be unfamiliar with that route in the film, or think that Carnival Crack is really a sandbagged 12b.