Roger's Corner Bolt Anchor - Loose Nut

[Don_Chicho]

Was up on Roger's Corner this weekend and found a loose nut on the right bolt of the newish bolt anchor at the tree belay spot at the base of Breakfast of Champions.

 

We had no wrench so couldn't tighten it, but if anyone plans to head up there, maybe bring a wrench and some Loctite and tighten that nut. Would it be standard practice when installing a bolt to put something like a Loctite on there to prevent the nuts from backing out?

 

 

[billcoe]

Would it be standard practice when installing a bolt to put something like a Loctite on there to prevent the nuts from backing out?

 

Not standard practice at all, but on hard overhangs or where you don't want your bolts easily yoinked not a bad idea. That or putting on a nylon insert locknut would be samesame.

Stainless on stainless and Zinc/Steel on Zinc steel - don't mix metals.

 

Climbmax has these interesting nut tools for sale: superlight, has a wrench. Little tough on the palm if you have to slam it!

 

$20.00 Woot!!! Or take me out and I already have one:-) It opens beer bottles too.

link

[rocketparrotlet]

There's a big freaking tree up there.

[keenwesh]

I'd rather not have a tree wrapped in tat. fix the bolt.

[rocketparrotlet]

You trust a couple pieces of metal in the rock with a surface area of a couple square inches, but are afraid to clip a large tree with root systems spreading out all throughout the wall? Just put one of your own slings on as a backup.

[el jefe]

you've misunderstood, rocket. it isn't that the tree is less reliable than the bolts, it is that the accumulation of tat over time is unsightly as well as unhealthy for the tree.

[keenwesh]

thanks boss, thats what I meant.

[rocketparrotlet]

Oh okay. Sorry then.

[MarkMcJizzy]

Oh okay. Sorry then.

 

You don't need to be sorry for anything. You were merely pointing out that the situation is not dangerous, and there are alternatives available to the bolts. It should also be noted in your defense, that when these bolts were initially installed, there was more than a little hue and cry from the normal CC hue and criers (but not Dawg).

Edited May 12, 2010 by MarkMcJizzy

[el jefe]

yes, no apology necessary, rocket, and i certainly didn't intend my post as a put-down of any kind. i was just trying to clarify keenwesh's point.

[flashclimber]

Not to get off topic but, eventually that tree will come down. Either by nature or by someones tool.

 

I have to admit I really like the anchors at the top. Tat is ugly, and a couple anchors that allow a more direct rap off of Rogers and a more direct belay for Breakfast and Marginal is soooooooo much better!

 

No worries, somone will take a wrench up sometime next week and tighten that bolt.