Trad shoe

[G-spotter]

I have had about 4 pairs of Aces in 20 years including one pair that's on it's 7th resole now but the big disadvantage of the design is the heel cup and the symmetrical shape. Heel cup has given me bone spurs on both feet right where the seam crosses it, and symmetrical shape has deformed both my big toes. Both of these must be considered big design flaws.

 

On the other hand the best shoe I ever wore, that climbed absolutely everything, was the Vector. Fucking awesome shoe. I have heard that there are both Evolv and Acopa shoes that are designed a lot like the Vector but I can't remember what they are.

 

Third favorite, hands down the Mocassym. Only 5.10 shoe that has ever fit my feet. Have had 1 pair go through 3 or 4 resoles in 10 yrs, just started using the second pair I bought originally to replace these ones 10 years ago! My only complaints are that they are just too tight to wear as an all day shoe, and too painful to wear in wide cracks.

[Dane]

I have had about 4 pairs of Aces in 20 years including one pair that's on it's 7th resole now but the big disadvantage of the design is the heel cup and the symmetrical shape. Heel cup has given me bone spurs on both feet right where the seam crosses it, and symmetrical shape has deformed both my big toes. Both of these must be considered big design flaws.

 

Any shoe that deforms your foot in use, if used long term cause abonormalities in your feet. Rock shoes (shoes in general) as a whole are a big design flaw for your feet

 

Finding a shoe that now fits your old, less elastic, deformed feet doesn't make it a shoe that will keep you going another 20 years!

 

[ARob]

I know someone who uses the Asylums for gnarly crack climbing. Not sure about edging, but he said they smear pretty well. I know these things are typically a gym shoe, but they are all rubber, so they are like armor for your feet. They are like $100 cheaper than the TC Pro too.

[fern]

scarpa infernos were my best ever but gave me a bone spur on the heel. I remember high on Springbok Arete I took to beating my head against the wall at the belay to distract from the pain in my feet.

 

I liked the Red Chili spirits too (high five to billcoe), but not easy to find in Canada and I am not going to order unknown shoes on teh interwebs.

 

I have a pair of Scarpa Technos that I have tried very hard to like and I just don't - I think that they failed to downscale the boardy midsole to a smaller shoes size or something - they are stiff in a bad way...but I can see that they might work well on bigger dogs. Same deal with lots of ice/mountain boots - much stiffer in the small/womens sizes than in the average men's size range.

 

Mythos have never let me down or surprised me (except in how quickly they wear out) - alas my $50 online source has dried up ...