anyone has condition updates from AK Range(ruth)?

[avnerma]

Hi Folks,

 

Four of us will be in the Ruth glacier May 23rd - June 2d. Were thinking of two types of excursions:

(i) one-push on moderately technical ice-climbs (Frizzy nuts, perhaps Ham and Eggs)

(ii) 2-3 days excursions like mt. Dan-Beard, Mt. Dicky and peak 11,300.

 

I suspect that for the first type we may be a little late in the season. The second type is probably less weather dependent (barring avalanche issues). Was hoping for some solid information before setting-off will help us take a more educated guess of what will work best.

 

Does anyone have pointers on climbs that are happening now, or perhaps you yourselves just came back and can say what early spring like there this year?

Much appreciated!!

[Kraken]

Talkeetna Air Taxi frequently updates conditions in the range. here is the link.

 

Sounds like there's lots of snow on routes, the Ruth received almost two meters of snow last week. Sounds like ice is not as thick on many climbs that need it (ham n eggs, shaken not stirred, etc)

 

That being said, we have warm temps in anchorage right now so the freeze/thaw conditions should be starting to pick up.

 

TAT BLOG: http://talkeetnaair.com/_blog/Talkeetna_Air_Taxi_Blog

[Jay Kerr]

We climbed the SW Ridge of 11300 in early May (many years ago). You're a couple thousand feet higher at the base than for climbs in the gorge, so conditions should be better. You can get landed right at the base, and the setting up in the West Fork can't be beat. Here's a link to a TR with photos of the ridge.

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/921453/TR_West_Fork_Ruth_Huntington_E#Post921453

 

Jk

[denalidave]

I was up there at basecamp last weekend for a night on the Ruth and there was about two feet of powder, low was about zero degrees (F) overnight. I'd check with TAT or K2 and get the latest scoop from them. Talkeetna Ranger station as well.

[John Frieh]

Freezy nuts was climbed on May 1st; team of 3 reported mostly snow with little ice

 

Ham and Eggs was climbed as recently as May 4th. Currently in great shape.

 

Sub average snow pack this year. Enjoy

[powderhound]

John When you headed out? Heard anyword team Harro? Doug is up there right now too right?

[John Frieh]

Back in PDX this morning.

 

Daniel + partner came out 2 days prior to Dylan and I going in (late March); I expect Daniel will have an excellent TR soon.

 

Doug and Rob went in last Friday and will be there for at least a few weeks.

 

A few other cc.comers are in or headed in soon.

[avnerma]

Thanks for all the replies. This is very helpful!

[wfinley]

H&E still in good shape. The Route should be in for at least a couple more weeks - still plenty of snow and ice up there. Steps up the Japanese couloir -- looked to be 2 or 3 days old. Apparently Freezy Nuts got climbed a couple days ago too.

 

The competing low pressure systems have made it colder this spring than the past couple of years -- but conditions will change fast next time we have a spell of high pressure.

 

[avnerma]

Thanks wfinley! Very encouraging report, not to mention the pictures...

 

I wonder if you (or anyone) would mind providing a simple explanations about the approach to Frizzy nuts. Somehow I don't see any place where this is mentioned. I know that it should be the couloir up London Tower, but cannot find London Tower anywhere, in partuclar not on this map

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zn1E2jlmZRI/Se_CEPvFIkI/AAAAAAAAAU8/Tg5yDSg3EQY/s1600-h/Blog+Map+.jpg

 

Thanks, avner

 

[wfinley]

Freezy Nuts is going to sit on the W face of this cluster of peaks. Pointing it out on a map is tough --- instead just look for this prominent couloir:

 

[img:center]http://www.peakaweek.com/photos/mountains/alaska/akr/ruth_2009/images/wfinley_ruth_2009-05-12_133.jpg[/img]

 

The btm triangular rock sits out all by itself and is very noticeable. This is what it looks like from the campsites at the base of Dickey.

 

[img:center]http://www.peakaweek.com/photos/mountains/alaska/akr/ruth_2009/images/wfinley_ruth_2009-05-12_132.jpg[/img]

[dustinb]

i just climbed 11300 seams like the route will be in for a while. no real ice to speak of but the rock should be in good shape and maybe you will have better snow than we did. dan beard is a snow pile right now with lots of wallowing and avies. maybe if some freeze thaw comes into play it will shape up. i flew out sunday and we were still post holeing around off skies. good luck