Delaminated Nepal Evos, Cordillera Blanca

[Hamik]

Not too long ago I posted a question on SummitPost about how to glue my Nepal Evo soles back on (and I've cross-posted this message there, but I figured more of you guys do alpine stuff, so voila this post). I got some fantastic responses, and I found that barge cement + wrapping in electrical or duct tape while the glue set was the best way. The opinions of the cobbler from Seattle and a couple of reputable members from my club list were that products like Shoe Goo should not be used because they are primarily caulking agents and not adhesives, so I didn't even try them. I did try superglue (both the runny and gel kinds), but in my comparison with barge cement I hardly kept use and quality of application constant.

 

After cleaning with alcohol, wrapping in tape, and letting the glues set for > 24 hrs, the barge cement seemed to last for ~1 hard day, whereas the superglue seemed to last for ~1/2 day. Their use was split more or less evenly between approaches and climbing rock and ice. I reapplied the glue about six times since my last post in October.

 

The soles have detached yet again, and I now find myself likely going to the Cordillera Blanca this summer. Since I'm on a budget this year, I wanted opinions on whether these sloppy boots are salvageable and appropriate for stuff to 6500 m or if I should drop some money on a new pair. Current pictures of the boots are below. In particular, I wanted to know if you think I can trust a repair job from a professional cobbler to keep the soles attached for one month of hard use; I'm not sure I should trust the cobbler's opinion, which is why I'm asking you guys! I'm concerned that my six botched jobs will affect the reliability of the cobbler's work, and indeed if under even the best circumstances the cobbler could use a magical glue or technique which would keep the soles on for more than a couple days. I have a pair of cheap, large-fitting double plastics (Invernos), and although they would surely suffice in warmth, I just don't feel as confident with them on hard terrain as I do in modern boots.

 

I have found only 1 source of information on alpine dry season lows in Peru, which says they're usually -20C to -5C. Since we will be climbing or rappelling at night sometimes, it's important for my boots to be warm enough for those temperatures. I've seen pictures of lots of folks at 6000m in the CB wearing the Nepals, but when I used mine on the East Buttress of Whitney late last November, I got the screaming barfies early in the day when it was about -10C... not a good sign, and I can't exactly test other sock configurations or heat packs because winter has left us. Can you provide input on realistic low temperatures in the CB--for instance, 1st to 3rd quartile lows on a solid high pressure day during which I might climb some TD ish route, perhaps some of it at night? I'm sort of open to getting new boots, particularly something I can continue to use in cold, technical climbing (like the Baruntses or Spantiks), but obviously I'd prefer to keep my old Nepals.

 

 

 

The above two pictures are of the same boot. The other boot's sole has held on a bit longer--2 trips since the last barge, I think--but it's still suspect since it was glued on a ton of times before. Here it is:

 

 

Thanks for your input!

[Dane]

Couple of observations...Looks like your boots got really hot somewhere, which is why the rands are cracking and the sole delam I would suspect. The rands need to be replaced as well. I would wonder about the condition of the leather at that point.

 

Best answer I have seen to fix them is from Dave Page in Seattle. He did the Spantiks below and suspect he can do your Nepals as well since he is the authorised La Sportiva repair guy.

Good luck!

 

"Dave Paige did the resole. La Sportiva does not import the Spantik sole, hence the Nepal sole on my Spantik boot...

 

 

 

[DPS]

Looks like your boots got really hot somewhere, which is why the rands are cracking and the sole delam I would suspect.

 

I found out the hard way that it doesn't have to be super hot to delaminate the soles. I stuck a pair of wet boots on the floor of my truck with the heater blowing on them. The next time I wore them the soles just peeled right off.

[summitchaserCJB]

Those pictures make me sad inside.

[Hamik]

OH! Wow, epiphany! I just realized why this happened to my boots... in Uttarakhand, India, on the way back to civilization, we took an old jeep whose floor got APPALLINGLY hot in the middle row of seats. My friends had sandals on, whereas I kept my boots on.

[Dane]

New Nepal Evo is warmer and fit better anyway. Going to cost you $100 plus at best to fix your boots. I'd suck it for at $380 on sale at:

 

https://www.alpenglowgear.com/gear/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=570gear/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=570&gclid=COPm1PSeoaECFR16gwod51TAxA

[Hamik]

Yeah, having compared my old-school Nepals to the newer ones in person, there is a significant weight difference. I wouldn't be surprised if they are warmer, too, as all told my buddies and I have comparable circulation but they are warmer in their new models.

 

Anyway, I'm leaning towards getting these resoled for local stuff, but taking Baruntses or Spantiks to Peru since I might be on high ish south-facing stuff. I would like to use this same hypothetical new boot for technical spring climbing in the Alaska Range. Opinions on one vs. the other? I realize I can search the forums, but any new opinions are quite welcome.

[summitchaserCJB]

Thanks for the link Dane. I am spreading the word.

[Dane]

Have and use both dbls but lack an opinion

 

What ever you do shop around. Going price for either is $500. on line.

 

The other two boots I have been impressed by lately is the newest Scarpa Phantom Guide (single boot with built in gaiter) available now and the newest Phantom 6000 double boot which should be available mid summer or so.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

I used a pair of Vasque Ice 9000s when I was down in the CB and was quite happy with them. Temps down there aren't generally that bad and I saw a few folks with single insulated boots like Nepal Extremes. I think it's mostly a matter of keeping moving when it's cold at night, if things go smoothly you'll be warm enough. If you have to stop due to a party above you or something, it's nice to have some extra insulation. I think I would have been fine if I took my Nepals, but the double boots were nice and I had some liners to sleep with my toes tucked in as well. There are several synthetic double boots now that climb way better than your old plastics, might be worth investing in especially if you plan on stuff in Alaska or high winter climbs in the NW.

[BirdDog]

Your boots looked pretty hammered, but send them Dave Page; he let you know whether they can be saved without spending a fortune.

 

http://www.davepagecobbler.com/

[Coldfinger]

You might try to find a pair of these on closeout:

 

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/AKU-Spider-Kevlar-GTX-Boot-Mens/AKU0001M.html

 

Sweet boots, got my pair new for $200. Very light, very warm, break in fast, climb well and great for approaches. Neptune might have a pair or two, try AMH too.

[Hamik]

Just wanted to thank you all again for the responses! I tried on the new Nepal Evos tonight and the difference is INCREDIBLE. The new ones weigh 2/3 as much and just feel so much more precise and nimble. Plus the tongue on the new ones works much better with my feet. I'm sad to say it, but I think I'm going to relegate these to the garage museum. Will take Baruntses to the CB, since I'm not totally convinced on the durability of the Spantiks (both the foam midsoles and the lace eyelets).