[TR] cathedral rock - possible variation? or new line of the NE buttress 4/26/2010

[kukuzka1]

Trip: cathedral rock - possible variation? or new line of the NE buttress

 

Date: 6-20 2003

Trip Report:

maybe someone out their knows a little about the 1984 route. the reason im writing this report is because the 3rd pitch was in my opinion the best pitch of that grade ive ever climbed in the cascades its too bad you have to climb the 1st and 2nd pitches to get their. it may be the 1984 route we did but their are some prominent features that I would have mentioned in a 1st ascent report[roof,rock bulge,yellow rock,large triangle rock]and the grade would be a serious sandbag.the route me and marko climbed in june 2003 started at the same belay tree as the 1984, then we headed left for aprox 20+ feet and then up, over scary,loose,4th and low 5th class rock, aiming for a left facing corner with a thin crack in it, belaying here. then strait up the crack[5.7] to a rock bulge with good jams[5.8+]which takes you to a small roof. exit out left thru some exsposed 5.6/7 climbing and mantel up to a large triangular rock, then more moderate climbing above. a truly awsome pitch. we moved the belay to possibly the same tree/notch as the 1984 route? but the crack up and left of the belay was in yellowish rock and was a short 5.9+ then a belay above, on a left trending ramp[loose rubble]to finish with a short scramble and the summit. so if anyone has any info, would aprieciate. mpreiss

 

Gear Notes:

stadard alpine rock rack to 4 inches

[Off_White]

You talking about the one above Peggy's pond?

[kukuzka1]

yes, not the one in northeast wash.[mt. dorrish]

[kukuzka1]

Ill try and post some pictures when convert from slides to digital

[CascadeClimber]

Jens and I climbed that route on July 20, 2003. I don't remember thinking any of it was remotely classic, but I was distracted by this little gift that the approach gave me:

 

 

Our first aid kit was one band-aid and a bottle of ibuprofen, so we employed the the socks. Had blood gurgling out of my left rock shoe every step up the route.

 

A couple more:

 

Old 1/4" bolt with ring piton and tat

 

Jens on the route.

Edited May 3, 2010 by CascadeClimber

[Pilchuck71]

Did you mean old 1/4" bolt with ring hanger and tat?

I see no piton.

That gash is freaking nasty!

What was the cause?

 

 

[CascadeClimber]

Did you mean old 1/4" bolt with ring hanger and tat?

I see no piton.

That gash is freaking nasty!

What was the cause?

 

 

Yes. Not enough coffee yet. Thanks for the correction.

 

Gash caused by sharp talus and operator error 200 yards from the start of the route.

[kukuzka1]

so the discription i gave sounds about right? we climbed the 1984 route? were was that bolt i didnt see any bolts. the climb as a whole isnt great but that pitch with the roof and mantel was awsome. anyways thats subjective

[Pilchuck71]

Not trying to be a nit-picker. For lack of coffee I thought I was missing something.

Sharp talus is the nasty shit.

I have seen more injuries from that and boiling water in camp than any other thing that comes to mind.

For example:

[kukuzka1]

you their cascadeclimber?

[CascadeClimber]

so the discription i gave sounds about right?

 

It was almost seven years ago; I remember a small basin area just below the top and bleeding all over the place, and not a lot else. Sorry.

[kukuzka1]

all right man, that was a nasty cut, i doubt i would of climbed anything after that

[kukuzka1]

maybe jens remembers the route? if hes out their?

[Jens]

I don't remember very much at all from the climb. A sandbag for the grade though for sure.

[kukuzka1]

photo of a line done left of the original ne ridge route. this pitch was one of the best of its grade (5.8) ive ever done