RJRiha Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Anyone know about a shiny new bolt on castle rock to the left of the Midway step across? I don't remember seeing one there in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 hmm. I was up there a couple months ago doing Damnation Crack and didn't notice anything. Just the Angel anchors about 10 feet from Jello. Might it need chopping? That step-across is totally protectable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 does it protect the step across? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Thanks for your reportage and getting to the bottom of this situation! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 (edited) It's the bolt for MW Direcr Direct. I was there about a week ago and noticed no bolt that hasn't been there for years. Edited April 12, 2010 by telemarker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Doubtful Tele given these posts. I don't remember seeing one there in the past. Â I was up there a couple months ago doing Damnation Crack and didn't notice anything. Just the Angel anchors about 10 feet from Jello. Might it need chopping? Â What are the Angel anchors and when did they come into existence? Summit chaser when you fix this new bolt, might the Angel anchor need "chopping" as well? Â Thanks! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 I think I remember an old bold on Midway direct or something like that a long time ago. To the left of the step across. If someone upgraded some hardware then more power to them. Were you perhaps seeing the TR anchors for DDD? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 angel anchors are a slung block. i really doubt someone is stupid enough to retro on castle. my geuss is that the bolt on the direct has been replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 (edited) With regard to the Angel anchor...Thank God but why haven't some locals gone and pried out that block so that climbers will be less inclined to leave their trash for the sake of a convenience anchor. Â Sol check out the quotes above they seem to be refering to a new bolt! Edited April 12, 2010 by Peter_Puget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJRiha Posted April 12, 2010 Author Share Posted April 12, 2010 The bolt is off to the left, certainly not protecting the step across. I'm not entirely sure where Midway Direct Direct (the 5.9 I believe) goes, but judging from the Leavenworth guidebook, it could very well be upgraded hardware for that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Yep. There are two newish bolts that protect the first 30' of MW DD. The first bolt is one of those funky horizontal type hangars. The other one is new too. They should be left alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 I frown on "upgrading" classics. Especially trad classics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 angel anchors are a slung block. i really doubt someone is stupid enough to retro on castle. my geuss is that the bolt on the direct has been replaced. Angel is a multi-pitch route. Most people rap after the first pitch- which is what you were referring to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 I find myself even more conservative than SCJB. Part of the fun of climbing is experiencing the "traditional" fixed gear. It gives me a sense of history that simply isn't there with modern stainless gear. I use to carry several quickdraws with narrow gates so that I could clip those pull tab aluminum hangers that use to be quite common. I can't remember the last Leeper hanger I clipped. Sadly this whole upgrade process is dumbing down our sport. Let's agree to leave the "classics" classic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 The upgraded bolts on MWDD have been there for probably the last four years, at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 (edited) And no one seemed to bitch about the upgraded 2 bolt anchor on the top of the second pitch of Saber, placed by abundant cracks. Edited April 12, 2010 by telemarker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Good point tele. I care less about bolt anchors than I do bolts on route. But your right none-the-less. That is a highly traveled intersection of two routes that see a lot of traffic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Why didn't you? Sometime you have to draw the line. Besides I'll point it out again. By Malcolm and Sum Chaser didn't see any new bolts recently. I am guess that this is the result of the new guidebook coming out and young gym trained climbers wanting to get their names into the next guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Yes, I think the Midway Direct Direct bolts have been there for years but it does seem that maybe the original post in this threaad is about a new bolt. Â Separate question about MDD: was there once a bolt somewhere in that face climbing following the two closely spaced bolts? I used to lead that pitch regularly but it was many years ago and now I look up there and it doesn't look like what I want to do any more. I don't remember thinking it was scary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 maybe peter puget should resume the role of mod and leave this issue to the leavenworth locals rather than prodding summitchaser to go on a chopping spree? seems to me telemarker knows the area pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 (edited) Hmm Jefe -- I am not sure I am encouraging anybody to do anything but as both Mattp and I have pointed out the bolt in question appears to be a new one! Â Â Also, I have been climbing at Castle for ~30 years. I have been there recently :http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/950646/Where_is_everyone#Post950646 Â If you want to take me upon a wager I 'll be happy to bet ($10.00) that I have climbed more routes at Castle than telemarker. Of course that fact doesn't mean anything as far as adding value to our comments. Â Edited April 12, 2010 by Peter_Puget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spore Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 new bolt at Castle the Horror ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Finally a kindred spirit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 I find myself even more conservative than SCJB. Part of the fun of climbing is experiencing the "traditional" fixed gear. It gives me a sense of history that simply isn't there with modern stainless gear. I use to carry several quickdraws with narrow gates so that I could clip those pull tab aluminum hangers that use to be quite common. I can't remember the last Leeper hanger I clipped. Sadly this whole upgrade process is dumbing down our sport. Let's agree to leave the "classics" classic! yep...that old aluminum hanger is just like the one used by the FA!! , likewise them bomber 1/4"-ers!!!!! Same as the day they were put in, i tell ya! Â keepin' it real... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S1W Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 People talk too much about chopping bolts on routes that, too often, they have never climbed, are not capable of climbing, and never plan to climb. Â Now people are talking about chopping bolts they don't really know anything about and others are talking about chopping bolts they haven't even seen and don't know anything about. Â All of this seems unreasonable to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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