Shiny new bolt on Castle Rock

[RJRiha]

Anyone know about a shiny new bolt on castle rock to the left of the Midway step across? I don't remember seeing one there in the past.

[summitchaserCJB]

hmm. I was up there a couple months ago doing Damnation Crack and didn't notice anything. Just the Angel anchors about 10 feet from Jello. Might it need chopping? That step-across is totally protectable.

[Sol]

does it protect the step across?

[Peter_Puget]

Thanks for your reportage and getting to the bottom of this situation!

[telemarker]

It's the bolt for MW Direcr Direct. I was there about a week ago and noticed no bolt that hasn't been there for years.

Edited April 12, 2010 by telemarker

[Peter_Puget]

Doubtful Tele given these posts.

I don't remember seeing one there in the past.

 

I was up there a couple months ago doing Damnation Crack and didn't notice anything. Just the Angel anchors about 10 feet from Jello. Might it need chopping?

 

What are the Angel anchors and when did they come into existence? Summit chaser when you fix this new bolt, might the Angel anchor need "chopping" as well?

 

Thanks!

 

[TimL]

I think I remember an old bold on Midway direct or something like that a long time ago. To the left of the step across. If someone upgraded some hardware then more power to them. Were you perhaps seeing the TR anchors for DDD?

[Sol]

angel anchors are a slung block.

i really doubt someone is stupid enough to retro on castle. my geuss is that the bolt on the direct has been replaced.

[Peter_Puget]

With regard to the Angel anchor...Thank God but why haven't some locals gone and pried out that block so that climbers will be less inclined to leave their trash for the sake of a convenience anchor.

 

Sol check out the quotes above they seem to be refering to a new bolt!

Edited April 12, 2010 by Peter_Puget

[RJRiha]

The bolt is off to the left, certainly not protecting the step across. I'm not entirely sure where Midway Direct Direct (the 5.9 I believe) goes, but judging from the Leavenworth guidebook, it could very well be upgraded hardware for that route.

[telemarker]

Yep. There are two newish bolts that protect the first 30' of MW DD. The first bolt is one of those funky horizontal type hangars. The other one is new too. They should be left alone.

[summitchaserCJB]

I frown on "upgrading" classics. Especially trad classics.

[summitchaserCJB]

angel anchors are a slung block.

i really doubt someone is stupid enough to retro on castle. my geuss is that the bolt on the direct has been replaced.

Angel is a multi-pitch route. Most people rap after the first pitch- which is what you were referring to.

[Peter_Puget]

I find myself even more conservative than SCJB. Part of the fun of climbing is experiencing the "traditional" fixed gear. It gives me a sense of history that simply isn't there with modern stainless gear. I use to carry several quickdraws with narrow gates so that I could clip those pull tab aluminum hangers that use to be quite common. I can't remember the last Leeper hanger I clipped. Sadly this whole upgrade process is dumbing down our sport. Let's agree to leave the "classics" classic!

[telemarker]

The upgraded bolts on MWDD have been there for probably the last four years, at least.

[telemarker]

And no one seemed to bitch about the upgraded 2 bolt anchor on the top of the second pitch of Saber, placed by abundant cracks.

Edited April 12, 2010 by telemarker

[summitchaserCJB]

Good point tele. I care less about bolt anchors than I do bolts on route. But your right none-the-less. That is a highly traveled intersection of two routes that see a lot of traffic.

[Peter_Puget]

Why didn't you? Sometime you have to draw the line. Besides I'll point it out again. By Malcolm and Sum Chaser didn't see any new bolts recently. I am guess that this is the result of the new guidebook coming out and young gym trained climbers wanting to get their names into the next guide.

[mattp]

Yes, I think the Midway Direct Direct bolts have been there for years but it does seem that maybe the original post in this threaad is about a new bolt.

 

Separate question about MDD: was there once a bolt somewhere in that face climbing following the two closely spaced bolts? I used to lead that pitch regularly but it was many years ago and now I look up there and it doesn't look like what I want to do any more. I don't remember thinking it was scary.

[el jefe]

maybe peter puget should resume the role of mod and leave this issue to the leavenworth locals rather than prodding summitchaser to go on a chopping spree? seems to me telemarker knows the area pretty well.

[Peter_Puget]

Hmm Jefe -- I am not sure I am encouraging anybody to do anything but as both Mattp and I have pointed out the bolt in question appears to be a new one!

 

 

Also, I have been climbing at Castle for ~30 years. I have been there recently :http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/950646/Where_is_everyone#Post950646

 

If you want to take me upon a wager I 'll be happy to bet ($10.00) that I have climbed more routes at Castle than telemarker. Of course that fact doesn't mean anything as far as adding value to our comments.

 

Edited April 12, 2010 by Peter_Puget

[Spore]

new bolt at Castle the Horror !

[Peter_Puget]

Finally a kindred spirit!

[RuMR]

I find myself even more conservative than SCJB. Part of the fun of climbing is experiencing the "traditional" fixed gear. It gives me a sense of history that simply isn't there with modern stainless gear. I use to carry several quickdraws with narrow gates so that I could clip those pull tab aluminum hangers that use to be quite common. I can't remember the last Leeper hanger I clipped. Sadly this whole upgrade process is dumbing down our sport. Let's agree to leave the "classics" classic!

yep...that old aluminum hanger is just like the one used by the FA!! , likewise them bomber 1/4"-ers!!!!! Same as the day they were put in, i tell ya!

 

keepin' it real...

[S1W]

People talk too much about chopping bolts on routes that, too often, they have never climbed, are not capable of climbing, and never plan to climb.

 

Now people are talking about chopping bolts they don't really know anything about and others are talking about chopping bolts they haven't even seen and don't know anything about.

 

All of this seems unreasonable to me.