keenwesh Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 how many ropes? will a single 70M reach? also, above the first 3 pitches is there any aid that actually requires aiders? I lead mid 5.10. can I pull on gear in a couple sections and make it through? I don't really want to haul all that shit up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted March 28, 2010 Author Share Posted March 28, 2010 anyone at all? come on people! what about you ivan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 2, probably not, no, yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 I think for a reasonably fast party its pretty doable in a day w/o fixing. Above first three pitches only place you may choose to aid would be the rotten block and you can just pull on gear. I wouldn't think a 70 m would be adequate to fix first three, I would think its at least 100 m but I don't really remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 No aid required at all if you start up Freedom Rider, but u don't get to aid the lip either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted March 28, 2010 Author Share Posted March 28, 2010 how hard is freedom rider? isn't it like mid 11? I kinda want to do the lip, it looks really cool. I suppose I could fix a 70 and a 60, it's just I don't want to haul the extra rope up there. maybe I'll just get my partner to carry it... also, from my minimal aid experience I really don't think I could get up those first 3 pitches fast enough to do the last 10. I guess I'll have to spend more time at index getting my aid on. anyone have a grigri they want to sell me for cheap? I feel bad hauling others along to belay my slow ass on aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 two 60's are needed if fixing the first three pitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted March 29, 2010 Author Share Posted March 29, 2010 thanks letsroll, nice pic too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 the first pitch alone is prolly around 150' heres a shot looking up the belays at the top of the piss stain   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted March 29, 2010 Author Share Posted March 29, 2010 so that's like ~200 feet to the lip? how much aid is above the lip? a pitch and a half? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 i'd say more or less pitch 2 and 3 are both about 80-90' and all aid if your climbingg 5.10 and under. then all free to the top, unless you aid the rotten block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crack Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 It's been a while since the Doc and I finally summited this route (took us three times, and then we still got benighted?!), but it was one that we vowed to do again and again as it was so much fun! Â Not being rock stars or aid monkeys and somewhat lazy, we only fixed the first pitch on a casual afternoon. It did save a *little* bit of time, and we didn't have to carry anything the second day (again, keeping the pace mellow), and didn't have to deal with as many ropes. The plan was also just to enjoy the climbing at a leisurely pace rather than to chase the daylight. Â The Lip was super fun to lead, but sucked to follow (again, we hadn't done much aid at all prior to this). I don't remember any of the aid or free climbing being too difficult. My favorite part of the route were the middle pitches -lots of moderate free climbing! Great rhythym, which came to a grinding halt at the Rotten Block pitch. Thankfully, it picked up again all the way to the top... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 The way I rememer FR the crux was about 20 feet of steep face at 10D. The 11 part was a friction move or two on the first full pitch after joining LC. I've always wanted to go back and do the lip tho... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 If you're a mid 5.10 climber you should consider simuling the last few pitches of the route. There are only a few moves of 5.9 but most is easier and its solid and will save you a lot of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted March 30, 2010 Author Share Posted March 30, 2010 sounds good, I'll bring a tiblock along to keep me from getting pulled off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.