question on climbing Mt. Adams

[medicsandy]

Last summer was my first climbing experience. I climbed on Mt. Adams, only as far as the lunch counter. I'm going back this summer with 3 other people, all new to climbing. We'd like to attempt to summit Adams. My question is: can we climb Adams without being roped up? Thanks!

[Water]

yes

[Dan_Miller]

The reason for Yes is that there are no crevasses enroute on the standard southside route up Adams. This does not however, mean that the upper mountain snow conditions will never be icy. Reasonable common sense and due caution will most likely allow you to ascend and descend safely. Plenty of little grandma's have successfully made the climb. Best of luck!

[Ryan Canfield]

nobody uses rope on the south route

[summitchaserCJB]

That doesn't mean that bringing one is stupid either. Getting off route (although improbable) would mean that you would need a rope.

[medicsandy]

thanks Dan! now all the way up I'm going to be telling myself "hey, if little grandma's can do this, so can I!" I'll be 49, but not a grandma yet (not that I know of, anyway)!

[Mtguide]

As with any big mountain,(and yes, contrary to what some might say, Adams is a big mountain; although lower than Mt. Rainier, it has more mass than Rainier by about 25-30%, so it's actually bigger) the weather on the south side route of Adams would be your primary concern. So you'll want to have good weather, and still be well prepared for any conditions that might arise. Even on a beautiful day in July, things can change very quickly. Fog or more severe weather can brew up in a few short minutes. In a whiteout, even the south side of Adams can be very difficult to navigate. Even with lots of people on the mountain and a superhighway boot track to follow, tracks can spread out and scatter around; a sudden heavy snow squall can fill in tracks in a jiffy; combined with zero visibility, you might as well be on the moon unless you know how to find your way down.

 

In a thick whiteout, you could easily get disoriented coming across the South Summit and wind up on the much steeper SW face or even over on the Klickitat or Klickitat headwall or the Mazama Glacier. If you tried to come off the summit in a whiteout without adequate map and compass skills and/or GPS, it's even possible to wind up on the Adams Glacier icefall or somewhere down on the the NW ridge, or N. Face of the NW ridge. Any of these routefinding mistakes could get you in serious trouble fast. Make sure the weather forecast is favorable for several days on each side of the day of your climb.

 

Get as much knowledge and experience as you can between now and your next attempt on Adams. Buy and study thoroughly books like "Mountaineering:The Freedom of the Hills", by The Mountaineers,and "The Mountaineering Handbook" by Craig Connally. Study especially the sections on navigation, mountain weather and hazards, clothing and food.

 

Study guidebooks and maps (USGS topos in 7.5 min.scale;--if you don't know what this means, find out!) so that you know your route thoroughly beforehand. Familiarize yourself with the terrain of the entire mountain, especially the routes and features on each side of your immediate route as well.The "Cascade Climbing Guide" by Fred Beckey, and "Summit Routes" by Stephenson and Bongiovanni have excellent route descriptions and photos.

 

Take a basic mountaineering course if possible. Know how to use an ice axe and be well practiced in doing a self arrest, both with and without crampons. Depending on the time of year and time of day you do your climb, crampons could be necessary on the upper mountain. Even on the Lunch Counter face, an uncontrolled slide on hard crust or icy conditions could result in serious injury.

 

As easy and "forgiving" as Adams is, please do not take it, or any mountain, or the weather, for granted, ever. Be sure you're in good physical condition. And, all of the above applies equally to your climbing partners as well. Each person needs to take responsibility for their own safety by getting as much knowledge, training and experience as possible; and that will make the entire party safer. Just because "little old granmas" can do it, don't let that lull you into complacency. Lots of those little old granmas have whole lifetimes of climbing under their belts, are tough as a boot, extremely knowledgeable, mountain-saavy, careful, and know just exactly what they're doing. To make sure you get to be one of them in later years, start out right and be well-prepared before you come out from the flatlands to set foot on the broad shoulders of Mt. Adams.

Edited January 12, 2010 by Mtguide

[rocketparrotlet]

We had to turn around on Mt. Adams due to 70mph winds and ice. In August. I would recommend crampons and an ice axe for sure.

 

-Mark

[montypiton]

make sure you re-read mtnguide's post a half-dozen times or so - just to make sure that EVERYTHING he's saying registers - because he's spot-on! The li'l ole grammas who waltz up Adams are probably tougher than a lot of certified guides... if you can locate one, you might consider tagging along with her...

 

-Haireball

[NateF]

I...wind up on the much steeper SW face or even over on the Klickitat or Klickitat headwall or the Mazama Glacier... it's even possible to wind up on the Adams Glacier icefall or somewhere down on the the NW ridge, or N. Face of the NW ridge.

It can be pretty easy to get disoriented and lost once back down on the lower mountain too. Not as immediately threatening as getting lost up high, but with lots of radial drainages that look really similar it's not a given that you'll find your car easily after you hit treeline. I'll join the refrain: Go with a good weather window for the most fun. Bring ice axe and crampons and know how to use them. You won't need them in all conditions, but it would be a shame to get most of the way up there only to get turned around or sketched out if the steeper slopes are firm. The slope up to the false summit gets gradually steeper and is steep enough at the top that an ax is pretty handy.

[Bug]

Do it!

Be ready as Mt Guide outlines but don't be scared off either.

I back off of climbs without emotional turmoil all the time.

For those of us who love to be out and consider making a summit an secondary objective, the rewards are different. Even if you "Have to summit" Adams is a much safer place to start than Rainier.

If everything falls into place, it is a beautiful mountain to summit. The south ridge is very straightforward in good conditions.

Ask more questions here if you have any.

[stevetimetravlr]

I have to disagree you need that gear. No need for rope, crampons, or ice ax on the south side route. Bring plenty of warm clothes and shell and good boots, it can be like the Artic up there when its 70 degrees down below. But it is just a hike, they used to take mules loaded with ore up and down it.

You will want to do it in good weather and watch the clouds as you climb and skedaddle down if they approach if you don't have good route finding skills. As if you get in a white out on the summit or false summit or somewhere in between, you could get off route into advanced terrain but thats unlikely if you are paying attention.

[Water]

also depends on time of year. going in late june? or early September? I mean this is a low snow year so far - chances are if you go in late august or in mid september there might not be anything more than a patch or two of snow the entire way. Such conditions do not warrant much more gear than good hiking equipment and a good head on your shoulders.

 

personally, having come from out east (michigan) and not having anything more than appalachian hiking experience, I would approach mt. adams with the same respect I'd approach katahdin or washington (sans lodge at the top) You've already been here once and been up most of the way so tons of your expectations are already realized. You're not coming here from Iowa for the first time looking to go up Adams as your first mountain climb ever, I think that counts for a lot. Do it in good weather, turn back if things start seeming bad, even in subtle or minor ways, unless you are confident based on firmly rooted, actual experience and practice that you can continue safely in adverse conditions.

[gyro]

I have to disagree you need that gear. No need for rope, crampons, or ice ax on the south side route.

 

So I could go take the mountain in winter via south spur and not need crampons or ice axe? Come on, you can't be telling people that they don't need crampons and not even mention factors like time of year or weather. I've done winter climbs of adams when the whole route above tree line was iced hard. I'd never recommend a novice forgo basic gear like an ice axe when approaching a summit they haven't reached before. Once they have done it they can decide for themselves what level of risk they are ok with. And as far as the mules go, they took them up and down in late summer. Just because you've never experienced conditions that require that gear doesn't mean it doesn't exist on that mountain.

 

medicsandy, Mtguide had awesome advice.

 

 

[medicsandy]

I plan on re-reading Mt Guide's post over and over. What great advise. I also WILL NOT go up there without my ice axe and crampons! We're planning on going the end of June. Because I do respect the mountain (any mountain), I get on here and ask these questions. Thank you so much for respecting the fact that I am new, and answering them! It mean a lot. Getting out there and learning and having a great time doing it, is what's most important to us. You are so right, summiting is secondary. Thanks Bug, for making me feel comfortable asking more questions on Adams, or anything for that matter. I'm sure that when the "little old grannies" were younger, they asked questions too. That's why they are still alive to climb!

p.s. would love to hear all of your advise on glissading. I've never done it and am worried about going to fast, getting out of control, and breaking something!

[montypiton]

medicsandy -- wise move, to bring up your reservations about glissading. unfortunately, the stories you hear will vary enormously -- so much depends on whether the runout is safe or not, whether conditions are fast (hard) or forgiving, and not least, your own comfort/skill level. I've been with groups where some members will "boot ski" (standing glissade) down a slope that other members of the same group will downclimb on crampons & two tools. For both the boot skier and the downclimber, the choice of technique was correct -- the key factor being that individual's skill/comfort level. Your best bet would be to get out on some smaller slopes, where consequences of misjudgment might be less threatening, and PRACTICE. Only mileage will provide you with the perspective to judge accurrately for yourself whether a given slope is safe for a standing glissade, sitting glissade, walk down, climb down or even rappel. And the appropriate descent tactic for you may well be inappropriate for a companion. Only practice mileage will give you the perspective to sort out such issues. So go find some "pet" slopes, and do some slidin'! And try to keep your face in one piece while you're at it... there may be a tendency to smile so hard you tear your face in half!

 

-Haireball

[summitchaserCJB]

"I have to disagree you need that gear. No need for rope, crampons, or ice ax on the south side route. Bring plenty of warm clothes and shell and good boots, it can be like the Artic up there when its 70 degrees down below. But it is just a hike, they used to take mules loaded with ore up and down it.

You will want to do it in good weather and watch the clouds as you climb and skedaddle down if they approach if you don't have good route finding skills. As if you get in a white out on the summit or false summit or somewhere in between, you could get off route into advanced terrain but thats unlikely if you are paying attention."

 

Dude, what are you talking about. That kind of advice can kill someone. Yes, it can be done without an ax, rope and crampons, but I've seen the dog route really icy in the summer where a fall could be fatal with super hard snow. I am quite experienced on glaciated peaks and I'd still bring crampons, ax and rope. At least bring crampons so if it gets icy you won't have to cut steps with the ice ax you didn't bring!

Edited January 14, 2010 by summitchaserCJB

[summitchaserCJB]

And am I blowing this out of porportion? It has been a couple years and a whole lot of climbing experience sinced I climbed Adams but I distinctly recall the hard ice conditions and my partner glissading on moderate slops and practically getting his ass kicked by the hard conditions. Thoughts?

[RokIzGud]

I dont know about a rope but crampons and an axe for sure.

[summitchaserCJB]

For sure.

[gyro]

And am I blowing this out of porportion? It has been a couple years and a whole lot of climbing experience sinced I climbed Adams but I distinctly recall the hard ice conditions and my partner glissading on moderate slops and practically getting his ass kicked by the hard conditions. Thoughts?

 

I don't think so. Adams is a big mountain with an easy route up that makes people forget it is a big mountain. In ideal conditions you won't need that gear, and me personally I'm comfortable leaving a rope behind for the south spur route. That being said, I'd never set out to summit a glaciated peak without crampons and ice axe, no matter how comfortable I am with the peak, and it is pretty appalling that someone would tell a beginner that they don't need such gear. With the right conditions Adams will kick your butt the same as any other mountain of its size.

[Water]

never do a glaciated peak without ice axe and crampons? it all depends on conditions but in late august or early september, in anything less than a monster snow year, during typical NW high pressure clear for days weather, you would carry crampons up south sister or st helens or adams? Yes that is all condition dependent, but under the general weather we get in late summer, when all 3 of those south-facing dog routes are entirely snow free...you would take crampons? Be it, medicsandy is going in late june - in regular snow year I would say crampons and ax. Late august..different story. This year might be melted out by late June--if snowpack so far is any indicator--hard to tell now though.

 

medicsandy, if i may ask, what preparation did you do prior to arriving at mt adams last year for your hike up to lunch counter. What gear did you take up to lunch counter, and how did you feel about it? this may be a 'beginner' but it isn't someone who has never seen the mountain or been on it, doing 2/3rds+ of the route--that counts for something.

 

[summitchaserCJB]

I wasn't aware that it ever was snow free all the way to the summit. When I climbed it it was snowy from base camp up. Don't remember the time of year..

[gyro]

never do a glaciated peak without ice axe and crampons?

 

I guess bad terminology on my part. If all of the snow and ice has melted I don't really consider it a glaciated climb. I should have said I would never do a climb that involved snow fields or glaciers without crampons and ice axe. That being said, sometimes it is hard to know what the conditions are before hand. Places like Adams that get lots of climbers are easy to get current conditions on, but other peaks information is harder to get, so usually I bring crampons and ice axe unless I have solid beta.

[Water]

no worries gyro. I'm on board with you on that take. For the time medicsandy is coming I'd recommend an ax (though would check for conditions in mid june), the knowledge to use it, and if not crampons, at least microspikes. If they have the time, money, and desire to take a basic mountaineering course, sure, but it is absolutely not required for the dog route on adams during the summer.