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wayne

[TR] Another Hyalite-Cody Trip Report - 12/26/200

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Trip: Another Hyalite-Cody Trip Report -

 

Date: 12/26/2009

 

Trip Report:

 

 

[video:vimeo]8545475

 

 

Over the Xmas-NY break, Lane and I took a break from life to get some ice in at Hyalite for 4 days then hit Cody for a precision strike on the Moratorium.

 

Hyalite:

 

Day 1, Finished the drive and ran for laps on The Fat one WI 3. Very Fat and great warm up.

 

Day 2 Palisade Falls-Left WI3, Right WI4 and Far Right-WI4-M4/5. Sun for a couple of hours, very fun except a big crack noise at the base.

 

Day 3: The AWESOME Thrill is Gone WI4 M4. Picture below..Fun in the sun, Laps a must. Bonus route: Elevator Shaft WI3+. Close by

P1010302.jpg

 

Day 4: Mummy Cooler 2 WI3+ , Scepter WI5, Running pretty wet. Got soaked went back to dry out.

 

CIMG2380.JPG

 

 

 

Day 5: Drove To cody

Day 6: The Moratorium WI4+, Just incredible 2 pitch route!

 

CIMG2381.JPG

All Smiles, worth the drive!

We got in 12 pitches/laps on 7 waterfalls. Had a great time climbing and meeting a couple ccers!

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brilliant wayne!

 

and sweet vid!

 

quite a bit fatter than nov...

Edited by t_rutl

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Looks like a fun trip Wayne. A little more ice on the thrill is gone than when we were there. I guess it just goes to show you really can climb that route in any conditions!

 

DSCN1068.JPG

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Good stuff dude! Thanks for sharing!

 

For vimeo embedding just put the video # in between the tags (in your case 8545475) and that usually works for me...

 

And I have never seen so much ice on the Thrill... not sure if you can claim the M4 part ;)

 

 

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the thrill definitely has way more ice than what we saw.

what's known about the partially bolted route just to the left?

 

here's a hack job of a picture combo i made of scott (cold iron) climbing and helicoptering off it. the pictures were taken from two different vantage points. sorry, the contrast isn't stellar.

last time we looked before he fell he was half-way up the ice smear above. the yellow arrows on the photo are bolts, the orange - scott's pins scott_s_fall.jpg

 

p.s. i love the razzle-dazzle on "palisade falls"

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the thrill definitely has way more ice than what we saw.

what's known about the partially bolted route just to the left?

 

Davidk nailed it: sharp dressed man. ~5 clips to a fixed nut (sketchy) then natural gear (spectres in moss and choss, then stubbies) to the top. The rock climbing is around 10a and the run-out on top feels like m6 or so but I've heard of peeps trying to drytool the whole thing and calling it m7+

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