[TR] The Elusive "Thumbtack" (below Chair Peak) - The Seldom Climbed Finite Spur 12/25/2009

[goatboy]

Trip: The Elusive "Thumbtack" (below Chair Peak) - The Seldom Climbed Finite Spur

 

Date: 12/25/2009

 

Trip Report:

My wife and I were intrigued by the recent reports of good conditions on Chair Peak, and with no specific plans or family needs to attend to on Christmas morning, thought we'd wake up early and take a look at it...

 

Conditions were lovely and firm on the boot track walking in, passing by open sections of moving water and hoar-frosted trees. It was somewhere in the mid to low 20's F, I would say.

 

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1459.JPG[/img]

 

We were buried in dense fog, especially on the steeper slopes climbing above Source Lake, and we wandered aimlessly through the mist for awhile, second-guessing our routefinding a few times...but eventually to our delight, we burst out into brilliant, cystalline blue skies!

 

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1466.JPG[/img]

 

Chair Peak rose up above us, looking to be in good condition.

 

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1477.JPG[/img]

 

Alas, it was later than we wanted to get started, so we made a new plan: To climb the coveted and elusive Snoqualmie sentinel which Beckey calls "The Thumbtack":

 

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1475.JPG[/img]

 

As you can see, the formation showed little to no evidence of prior ascents, so we were thrilled with our good fortune.

 

Eschewing the ropes, crampons, ice screws, MLU's, and other tools that murder the impossible, we committed ourselves to the daunting ridge which, for lack of another idea, we named "the Finite Spur."

 

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_14901.JPG[/img]

 

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1494.JPG[/img]

 

Arriving breathlessly on the summit, I declared, "Gentlemen... that's as far as I can take you!" before realizing I was all alone on the remote and windswept summit. I knew that I needed to marshall all of my attention and focus for the descent, with limited supplies (other than the Ziploc bag in my pocket full of over a pound of salty, smoked Smithfield Ham from Virginia).

 

Safely back at the base, I embraced my beloved wife and enjoyed the frozen scene before me on this perfect Christmas morning.

 

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1503.JPG[/img]

 

Gear Notes:

We carried all kinds of stuff...didn't need it though. Ham is helpful.

 

Approach Notes:

Follow the usual maze of boottracks to Source Lake and above towards Chair Peak. No flotation required!

[Alpinfox]

 

This redefines alpinism in the PNW.

 

TELL THE WORLD!

 

[dberdinka]

I think he would have had to commit to a successful non-parachute-assisted BASE descent to really make it news worthy though.

[genepires]

I climber the mighty North face of the thumbtack once. The highlight of that winter for me.

[Bug]

Now instead of following "the maze of boot tracks" we will be following the "throng of buttocks" as the hordes descend on this classic route.

[goatboy]

cc.com flavor of the week - the mighty Thumbtack! I challenge any of you to improve on the style of this majestic and visonary route.

 

Critics are saying, "[the Finite Spur is] so modern, yet so classic... how can a single climb encompass so much history, while still impelling us all into the future of alpinism?"

 

[tomtom]

Ski sticks are aid.

[goatboy]

True, TomTom... ski sticks are aid.

 

The Finite Spur has yet to see a free ascent, in fact, though strong parties have attempted it with neither hammer, nor ham.

 

Rangers from the National Pork Service have been inquiring as to the style of the ham and wondering if in fact it was well-done.

 

Note: As of this evening, Mountain Locator Bacon(s) are not required, though many of the readers from Oregon are clamoring for such enhancements to culinary alpinism.

[escapetherock]

It made a good lunch spot on the afternoon of Christmas eve while I waited for friends. Great place to heckle passing skiers. Just don't fall off the North side.

[Le Piston]

I was up there yesterday. I was alone, so no cool picture of me...hence no claims of fourth or fifth solo ascent. I must confess though, I used aid (poles)...oh the shame!