Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
AlpineMonkey

[TR] Hyalite Canyon - Mummy Cooler Area - 11/27/2009

Recommended Posts

Trip: Hyalite Canyon - Mummy Cooler Area -

 

Date: 11/27/2009

 

Trip Report:

 

Having a blast here in Hyalite. I've never seen so much ice all in one area. Weather is not too cold, not too hot, not too much snow...everythings perfect.

 

Mummy Cooler II

 

DSCN4647.JPG

 

Crypt Orchid

 

DSCN4660.JPG

 

DSCN4669.JPG

 

The Matrix - The Winter Dance book has a picture of this route describing it in fat conditions, showing mostly rock as a mix climb. We climbed it all ice.

 

IMG_1091.JPG

 

IMG_1098.JPG

 

Cave & Gully

 

DSCN4684.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Winter Dance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hey,

how's the weather looking?

it was getting quite inverted and warm up in the canyon by the time we left (wednesday) - 28F in town, 51F on our drive up to the main lot!

 

hope the ice is keeping stable for you guys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any south facing stuff in? I haven't been to Hyalite and am interested but wonder how crowded it gets. Glad you guys got some early season ice in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Climbing somewhat slower as a party of three, we got in 11 different one pitch routes over 3.5 days of climbing.

 

Our first couple of days (during the holiday) at the end of the Hyalite Canyon road there were about 4 cars total in the parking lot and we had all the good stuff to ourselves. On Sunday when we left there were about 30 cars by around 11am.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Climbed with a local on 11/27-28. First day was warm, above freezing. The second day was much better, a bit of new snow, clear and sunny with temps around 20 degrees (near perfect ice climbing weather).

 

Spent Friday climbing G1, G2, Hangover and then finished with some TR on the stuff right of G1. All the climbs were a bit thin, but felt like the grades listed in the guides. Hangover was the thinnest, however the shortest screws I use are 13cm and I only had a couple that only went at 10cm.

 

Saturday featured a warmup on Mummy 2, which is in 4- conditions and was a really fun climb. Next was The Scepter, it's in 5/5- shape and it's fun. Technical climbing on and around huge mushrooms with a bit of stemming on rock for the lower section. The upper section is 85 deg ice for about 10-15m. The ice was great and was easy to protect. The last climb was Crypt Orchid which was a nice, mellow cool down route. I wanted to stay and climb on Sunday, but I was riding solo so I only had two days of climbing for two days of driving, but it was well worth it!

 

Here's a couple of shots

 

Washington climber on Mummy 2 (I forgot his name)

Hyalite_Canyon_01.jpg

 

The Scepter

Hyalite_Canyon_-_The_Scepter_05.jpg

 

This is my first time to Hyalite and I am hooked! I also would recommend the Backpackers Hostel for a cheap place to stay. I met a bunch on cool folks from all over the place.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

[video:vimeo]7933428

 

 

Craig Gyselinck climbing The Matrix WI 4 in Fat Conditions. Normally this climb goes at WI4 M5. livin the Hyalife fo sho.

 

 

if you click the vimeo button, you can go to the vimeo site and watch full screen.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To answer some of the questions posed above:

 

If you are looking at the Bozeman weather, the temps over the last month may have looked sketchy for Hyalite Ice. Quite the opposite! 50 degrees in Bozeman more often translates into perfect temps for Hyalite. It's been going off up there for over a month now. It's the best year in years. It's getting quite cold right now so it's only getting better.

 

Hyalite doesn't get very crowded, at least when compared to most Canadian Rockies or Colorado routes. The Genesis area, Mummy II and Corner climbs get busy on the weekends but the scene is very low keyed with a great vibe. I typically do The Matrix and Champagne Sherbert at least a couple of times a year and I've never seen another person on either. Even the Unnamed Wall is surprisingly uncrowded most of the time. During the Ice Festival Dec 11-13 it might get a bit busier than usual since the clinics take up Genesis 1 & 2 and Mummy 2. But that leaves about 130+ other routes (with everything from WI 2-3 to easy mixed to as hard as you want to climb up to WI7 and M12) for you to go do. The canyon is used by more than just climbers so don't let the number of cars in the parking lot scare you. I did Dribbles last year in March and there were 20+ cars in the parking lot. We didn't see another soul all day other than in the parking lot. Go to the East Fork or the Upper Main Canyon and you'll likely have it all to yourself!

 

Some one asked about south facing routes. Aspect isn't as big a deal here as it is in the South Fork of the Shoshone near Cody. Hyalite Canyon runs north-south.

 

Guy Lacelle and I spent yesterday in Hyalite and I put a condition report up at Montana Ice Dot Com http://montanaice.com/node/1227 with all the details.

 

Hope to see you up there!

JoJo

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For Montana 5.9, that first column of The Matrix took screws pretty well.

 

The_Matrix_II.jpg

 

The moss at the top of Feeding the Cat did not, however.

 

Feeding_the_Cat_III.jpg

Edited by tomtom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The top of Feeding the Cat is "Mossome!"

 

FYI: When I first published "Winter Dance" no one had ever seen The Matrix fully formed. That is one reason the caption calls it "fat." In fact, it had only been climbed a handful of times as late as 2003. Now it's a trade route, not to mention being more accessible thanks to the road being plowed. It's about every third year or so that it comes in big like this year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The road is fine. It's plowed now to the Grotto Falls Parking Lot between December 1st and April 1st. The Gallatin County crews might not get to right away after a snow storm since it's lower on their priority list but it will get done none-the-less.

 

This dreamy situation is the result of several years of negotiation between climbers, skiers, other community members, Gallatin County and Gallatin National Forest. Two years ago the Forest was planning on gating the entire road at the bottom all winter long. To make a long story short, that is no longer the case and it's not only open but also plowed. Thanks to the recent stimulus packages, guard rails were installed along the lower road to keep the yahoos out of the creek and polluting Bozeman's water supply. On that note, the road can get quite slick or if it's snowing hard for the day it can pile up quickly. A good car, snow tires, a shovel and a healthy dose of respect, patience and common sense is still required.

 

The East Fork Road is not plowed but is still open until January 1st. After that you would have to ski into Palisade or Flanders or the other East Fork Routes (the road is a popular XC ski trail so there is usually a good track).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×