LostCamKenny Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 Trip: Beacon Rock - Mt Beacon: an alpine ascent! - SE Corner - with a few detours Date: 9/18/2009 Trip Report: I got to thinking (Ouch!) that I haven't read a TR on anyone doing an alpine-style climb of the SE Corner. Why not? Could it be that it's just too short, too ascessible, or just not cool enough for such a report, or is it that no one lese is doing shit like this out here? Probably a good combination of all the above. Nevertheless, I talked DenaliDave into shouldering a pack full of his life-support system for the night, climbing hte corner (in the dark) and making a nice, comfortable bivy perched high on the face. It was a beautiful night and not a cloud in the sky - yet! We did the route, proper, and after making it through the squeeze chimney to the base of the slab, I went left instead of going right. We wanted to drop our packs before going to claim a bit of cargo that DD had the foresight to stash up there earlier before we arrived. Lighter without our packs, we climbed a pitch up to a small stance and claimed our prize, which was welcomed fully once we made it to our bivy. DD going up off the ground Me, starting the second pitch DD leaving tree ledge The rat that has been chewing the knot on the safety line on the ledge... Not sure what DD is looking for, but I bet it's important... Looking under our tarp-laiden bivy DD needs a few more biners for that tether line Dave enjoying the view from our perch Oh noooooo...! it started to rain in the early mornign, but we were protectd by our planning ahead last night when we put up the tarp. Luckily only the foot of my bivy sack got wet. Not sure what time it was, but the rain was still coming down pretty good and we heard a call down from above. Then, a few minutes later, Ivan comes down a rope with mike close behind and they have their own plans for the day We all sat under the tarp and enjoyed a dry spot in the rain, while we waited for the rain to yield Ivan and mike - mike leading After Ivan and mike started their aid project for the day, DD and I made our descent via five, very damp but not-nearly-as-bad-as-they-could-have-been rappels. It was a great time, dispite the rain... recomend this to anyone who wants a good time! Gear Notes: very, very light! Approach Notes: Horrendous - don't bother coming out Quote
billcoe Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 Great stuff LCK! BTW, got yer car note, thanks, it cracked us up. However: LOL! Quote
ivan Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 What is an alpine-style accent? any ascent done in retard conditions, both internally and externally - you can qualify if you wish Quote
JosephH Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 Hey, did you clean that shrub out of the top of the wide section off the ledge? Quote
ivan Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 Hey, did you clean that shrub out of the top of the wide section off the ledge? who's the question for and what ledge? mike cleaned all the re-growth on our "takes a village" route off the land of the little people - it goes just fine and clean now w/o the fixed pins that larry had originaly put in then taken out - mike even avoided the hook move i always used Quote
JosephH Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 That's the one. And is there still a fair chunk of dubiously attached rocks up by, I believe, larry's old pins. Quote
ivan Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 That's the one. And is there still a fair chunk of dubiously attached rocks up by, I believe, larry's old pins. sure - i can't imagine freeing the line but then i am very silly - the first 1/3 is wicked steep and thin - the OW is weatherable i reckon though, and if you can get through that then the traverse to the anchors probably will go too - would love to see it happen! Quote
JosephH Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 That's the one. And is there still a fair chunk of dubiously attached rocks up by, I believe, larry's old pins. sure - i can't imagine freeing the line but then i am very silly - the first 1/3 is wicked steep and thin - the OW is weatherable i reckon though, and if you can get through that then the traverse to the anchors probably will go too - would love to see it happen! I did free it up to that damn bush, but never got back to clean it out. Also never did hear who cleaned the nut I left at the bottom of the OW (not that it matters). Will have to get up there and give it another go once my hand heals. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 22, 2009 Author Posted September 22, 2009 Will have to get up there and give it another go once my hand heals. What have you gone off and done to yourself, joe? it isn't as serious as you are making it sound here, is it? Quote
JosephH Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 Oh, fucked up a couple of already broke fingers surfing. Hope to be able to get back on stuff in the next week or so... If I tag the FFA can I rename it to: 'takes a village idiot'? It's about how I feel at the moment. Quote
kevbone Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 Has this route been cleaned yet? Properly cleaned on rappell with the right tools? Quote
ivan Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 Has this route been cleaned yet? Properly cleaned on rappell with the right tools? it's been led as an aid climb, ground up, w/ the exception of rapping in to pry out several atom-bomb sized rocks that stopped the original party god know's how long ago i'm less certain now of the bush you speak of joe - certianly any vegation that is problematic to an aid climber is gone Quote
kevbone Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 Has this route been cleaned yet? Properly cleaned on rappell with the right tools? it's been led as an aid climb, ground up Is that a no? Quote
ivan Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 Has this route been cleaned yet? Properly cleaned on rappell with the right tools? it's been led as an aid climb, ground up Is that a no? the route is clean, yes. only a portion of it was cleaned on rap (it's a big traverse after the first 30 feet of overhang, so ground up cleaning was easiest - the gaint blocks had to be got at from above though unless you had a death wish ) i would not be surprised if my definition of clean is differnet from the pure free climber's though - the middle section of the route is a bit loose, but that's just the nature of the rock there and prying away at all of it wouldn't do much more than ruin some of the gear placements Quote
JosephH Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 It was the shrub at the top of the wide section about 8-10 feet above your head in that photo. I suspect it's gone as it would have sucked aiding through it as well. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 22, 2009 Author Posted September 22, 2009 i would not be surprised if my definition of clean is differnet from the pure free climber's though neither would i... i'm sure it is! Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 22, 2009 Author Posted September 22, 2009 Oh, fucked up a couple of already broke fingers surfing. Hope to be able to get back on stuff in the next week or so... Shitty, man... speedy recovery to ya! Quote
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