LostCamKenny Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 Trip: Beacon Rocks... Yes, it does! - Climbin high with the correct bird - Right Gull Date: 9/18/2009 Trip Report: So JP called me up and asked if I was going to be available for a climb on friday. "Sure, but I have to work at 1pm - as usual - so I have to be rollin out of the parking lot by 12:30," is my normal response when someone asks if I can get out in the AM, and so it was, also, to JP. I had actually bivy'd up on the rock the night before after rappeling in, so when I woke up in the morning to the sun coming up over the oregon side of the gorge I made 4 quick rappels down to Snag ledge and tossed JP (who was waiting at the base) an end of the rope. When he got up to me then the fun began. The first time I led this route I took far more than I really needed - I guess I did the same this time too, but it was trimmed down considerably from the first time. I practically never used any of the larger cams that I brought, opting to use the hexes instead The big cams cam in handy, but not til later on the route. It was kinda windy on friday, so I decided to break the route up into three pitches. This way JP and I could always be in earshot - or so we thought (more on that later). The first pitch starts with an airy traverse over two voids that look down the rock to the base. Neither void is truly large or gaping (maybe the first one), but they are both attention-grabbing if you are doing them for the first time, as JP was. Once over the second void it was time to start up the hand crack, which I tried to make quick work of. I didn't place more than 3 or 4 pieces (can't remember now) in this corner, but it was much more secure-feeling than the first time I did it so I didn't mind the small runouts I had. When I got to the top of the pointed pillar I threw in a small offset nut and then lunged for the next pillar over where there was a belay. I brought JP up to here. The second pitch started off with some aid off two pins. Since I can't climb .10a and didn't have the time to try, fall, flail and then aid it, this seemed like the appropriate course of action for P2. Once I was above them I got up to the next hand crack and made a mix of free and aid moves to gain the top - I sewed this section up and didn't mind! Then I traversed about 12-15 feet to the shared belay with Bluebird and put JP on for the follow. JP said he tried the .10a moves and then just moved on for the sake of time... At the shared belay station we took a quick break, listened to some Metalica on the tunebox and trimmed the thorny bushes back so they wouldn't tear up your ankles anymore as you stood there belaying. I also recoved a biner left by the last party to climb the route, but I knew who it belonged to so it wasn't booty, but rather, made for a good laugh I re-racked I made an effort to get moving again. Pitch 3 goes up a very fine crack that I can understand if only a few have a likeing for. The reason I like it: chockstones - two of em - followed by a bomber gold camalot! After gettin out of this thing I went up between the trees and then left up a series of higher and higher platforms until I was coming up through the trees on grassy ledges. When I got there the wind was blowing (not terribly hard) just hard enought that JP couldn't hear me when I yelled "off belay." Grabbing the rope I started tugging as hard as I could and pretty soon I was pullin the rope up uninhibited. The to get JP moving I had to pull on him to let him know he was on belay - this worked out so well I can't understand why it could ever get confusing Anyway, JP followed in fine fashion and we were both on grassy ledges ready to continue on. I left my alpine pack at my bivy spot this mornig and decided that I'd just collect it on the way out, so JP belayed me to go and get it, and then we made our way to the trail via some beautiful rock and some fine exposure on a ridge - aaahhhhhhhh! Props to JP - a fine job cleaning up my messes on each pitch, he did! The view - taken on lead - from the middle of the corner on pitch one JP comin up to the first of the two pillars - and then to the belay Lookin up P1 Not much room here, but just enough to be comfy The flailing hasn't started yet, as I still look fairly calm Fifi - readily available JP clowning around with the self shot In it with the chockstones Lookin up the first part of P3 The rest of the route to the top has so much already said about it so I won't bore the masses any longer (too late, if you made it this far). Gear Notes: Lots of shit - most of it I didn't use/need Approach Notes: Horrendous - don't even bother coming out Quote
ivan Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 you should link those first 2 pitches to the bluebird anchor, esse - just bring plenty of big gear, as the first time i did it i found meself essentially free-soloing the second pitch looking forward to doing this route this very warmish afternoon! Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 21, 2009 Author Posted September 21, 2009 you should link those first 2 pitches to the bluebird anchor, The first time I led it i did that, but since JP had never been on it I wanted to be within earshot of him so I broke it up into three pitches. It's much better when done in two, though. Quote
geoff Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 I'm sure it was just allergies or something but JP looks a little high in that self pic. It's ok though, I have allergies too. Quote
justinp Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 I'm sure it was just allergies or something but JP looks a little high in that self pic. It's ok though, I have allergies too. Pure coincidence Geoff…. Thanks Kenny! Quote
ivan Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 awesome day on right gull 2day - hurricane wind gusts fucking w/ my music, warm though - meant to place some gear on my pitch but somehow just didn't much get around to it Quote
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