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Posted

Get a proper mountaineering training for steep snow (anchors, running belays and rope management) PLUS crevasse rescue and avalanche training/certification are a must!

Camping reservation in advance might be a good thing to do if you are flying from Cali.

Comparison: Avalanche Gulch is a hike compared to the easiest routes on Rainier.

Posted

April is still usually pretty wintery on Rainier. You probably won't have to worry as much about crevasses as avalanches and breaking trail that time of year. But maybe that's what your after.

 

June / July is usually the safest time to go, FYI.

Posted (edited)

The Dissappointment Cleaver or Emmons routes are the most straightforward. Recommend going with people who know about crevasses...and going a little bit later as previously suggested for better all around conditions.

 

The Kautz Glacier route on that mountain was my first northwest climb. Have fun.

Edited by tvashtarkatena
Posted

April/May are super condition dependent...are you up only for a specific window of time? I'd wait until a month or two out and look for a team...better chance of connecting on a solid trip

 

early season look to head up the Ingraham Direct route...kinda like a "shortcut" for DC but only before the Ingraham get's too broken up

Posted

Get hooked in with the mountaineers or boealps or some organized class. Get a copy of freedom of the hills and study it. Basic information, but good stuff.

 

Learn some rope management/crevasse rescue skills before you go. As nice as most mountaineers are, no one really wants to drag your butt out of a crevasse and miss/delay their summit attempt.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
In the meantime, I plan on taking an Avalanche/Crevasse course and completing a Mt Shasta summit via the Casaval Ridge in preparation for my Rainier summit attempt.

 

Casaval Ridge is not a bad option especially if you do it c-to-c in one day.

Posted
Get hooked in with the mountaineers or boealps or some organized class. Get a copy of freedom of the hills and study it. Basic information, but good stuff.

Learn some rope management/crevasse rescue skills before you go. As nice as most mountaineers are, no one really wants to drag your butt out of a crevasse and miss/delay their summit attempt.

 

these. also, have fun and be safe. welcome to the obsession.

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