Steph_Abegg Posted August 31, 2009 Posted August 31, 2009 (edited) Trip: Minuteman - East Face (5.9 or 5.10) Date: 8/28/2009 Trip Report: On the 10-hr drive back from the Valhallas in BC (my second time there this year), my partner David and I were getting tired of sitting in the car, so we decided to stop to climb at Washington Pass off HWY 20. The East Face of Minuteman Tower was a great way to break up the drive! As usual, I've posted a full TR and photos on my website: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/minuteman Photo overlay of East Face route on Minuteman Tower: The stellar 5.8 handcrack on the upper shield. Just this pitch is worth climbing the route! Again, the link to a full TR and photos on my website: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/minuteman Edited September 5, 2009 by Steph_Abegg Quote
Keith_Henson Posted August 31, 2009 Posted August 31, 2009 Loved your picture of the road sign pointing to your objective. Road sign pointing to objective Quote
Steph_Abegg Posted August 31, 2009 Author Posted August 31, 2009 (edited) There are some appropriate road signs along HWY 20...also this one ... Edited August 31, 2009 by Steph_Abegg Quote
dberdinka Posted August 31, 2009 Posted August 31, 2009 I did that climb back when the Internet was nothing more than a few computers in Al Gore's basement. I've always wanted to go to it again. The chimney var. Looks fun. Quote
davidk Posted August 31, 2009 Posted August 31, 2009 Steph, this was an excellent idea for a way to finish off our trip. Pitch 5, the chimney-to-roof-to-handcrack, goes down as my most fun lead yet! Quote
goatboy Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 That roof to the handcrack is one of the best, and most unique, pitches at WA PASS. Did you find some of the middle pitches (maybe pitches 2-3) to be really manky and gross? Quote
Steph_Abegg Posted September 3, 2009 Author Posted September 3, 2009 Did you find some of the middle pitches (maybe pitches 2-3) to be really manky and gross? There was a short ~20ft section of really weathered "wonder-if-this-handhold-will-crumble-off" kind of climbing right before the lower half of the chimney. But it looked to me you would have to climb this section whether or not you chose the crack bypass or the chimney. Tbe chimney itself was good climbing. Other than that 20ft section, the route was great. Quote
powderhound Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 that route is a stupid piece. If it were in the sawtooths, tetons, winds,beartooths, ect..... it would be a NO star route. I would not recomend that people climb this route, a route cannot be a "classic" and only have 70 feet of good crack. The descent is going to get someone killed, rapping off a single four inch slung root. Come on WA climbers bring a drill up there and put in some real anchors this anit no wilderness and it anit no party. The lower pitchs are so manky.....not worth your time and burdo don't know dick about shit when classic is concerned. Yes I know what I am talking/typing about I have been on a summer alpine trip since July. Quote
ivan Posted September 3, 2009 Posted September 3, 2009 that route is a stupid piece. If it were in the sawtooths, tetons, winds,beartooths, ect..... it would be a NO star route. I would not recomend that people climb this route, a route cannot be a "classic" and only have 70 feet of good crack. The descent is going to get someone killed, rapping off a single four inch slung root. Come on WA climbers bring a drill up there and put in some real anchors this anit no wilderness and it anit no party. The lower pitchs are so manky.....not worth your time and burdo don't know dick about shit when classic is concerned. Yes I know what I am talking/typing about I have been on a summer alpine trip since July. i hear you on rapping off bullshit, having just done the n face of index thang - at 260 lbs, fully loaded, i get massive testicular shrinkage putting my life on shrubbery Quote
his_radness Posted September 19, 2009 Posted September 19, 2009 (edited) I would rather trust my life to the wonders of nature than to some dipshit chalk-snorter straight out the gym. Bolts rust, are subject to freeze-thaw cycles, are placed improperly, or are placed in shitty rock. I would rather have an anchor that I can personally inspect and decide whether or not to trust my life to it-- but thats just me. ps. good route. Edited September 19, 2009 by his_radness Quote
koshkii Posted June 11, 2010 Posted June 11, 2010 have you rapped off of that pitch? You can't improve it without a bolt or leaving gear, and it's basically a tall, skinny slung block with a sloping bottom sitting/leaning on a sloping ledge, and it's all lucky to still be standing there. i took a deep breath and said some prayers as soon as I weighted that thing... i won't climb that route again because of that rap. Quote
powderhound Posted June 11, 2010 Posted June 11, 2010 its dangerous...pure and simple. If i lived there I would take my bolt gun up there and do future climbers a favor and put in some safe anchors. Quote
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