Wes_Ft_Collins_CO Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Looking to head into the Cascade pass area soon. Does anyone have any idea what conditions on the north face of Mt Buckner would be like? Considering I'm reading reports of September-like conditions on other nearby peaks, I'm assuming it's alpine ice with a large yawning bergschrund that may or may not be passable. thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazyalpinist Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Check this out: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=898328 Looks like more rock than snow/ice right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 We climbed the North Face last mid-July with the idea of skiing it and there was already large sections of bare rock. Even though in some places there was more snow this year, considering the wedder this year I'd guess it's probably pretty dried up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 We climbed the North Face last mid-July with the idea of skiing it and there was already large sections of bare rock. Even though in some places there was more snow this year, considering the wedder this year I'd guess it's probably pretty dried up. You don't have to guess. The pictures in the link show it pretty clearly. It's bleak right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wes_Ft_Collins_CO Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 Thanks! With the conditions, would there be any worthwhile route up Buckner from the Boston Peak / Sahale Col? Ripsaw ridge??? Is it possible to access the SW ridge route from there? Besides Forbidden Peak and Sharkfin tower, are there other recommended climbs in the area given this year's conditions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 I'd suggest E Ridge, N Ridge, or NW Face on Forbidden. S Ridge on Torment, either on it's own or as access to the excellent Torment Forbidden Traverse (note that the north side snow traverses may offer significant late season challenges). Sharkfin always seemed like a long ways for not much, but that's just me. A high alpine traverse over to the Eldorado area after you're done in Boston Basin could offer some scenic and challenging travel with something like Early Morning Spire or Dorado Needle waiting for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 You can access Horsehoe Basin easily from the other side of Sahale (south side) - the Sahale Arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 E Ridge direct on Forbidden is great, no ice games. Sahale Arm is fun, easy. Both can be easily done as day trips, or camp in Boston Basin and do both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Both can be easily done as day trips Unless you're feeble like me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Both can be easily done as day trips Unless you're feeble like me. Negative self talk will hold you back from reaching your full potential. Read Performance Rock Climbing or spend time with John Frieh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Both can be easily done as day trips Unless you're feeble like me. Negative self talk will hold you back from reaching your full potential. Read Performance Rock Climbing or spend time with John Frieh. I've eaten John Frieh's dust and never left the parking lot. My point is that off the couch does not lend itself to 5000' round trip days. I know how to be less feeble, I just have to want it more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Both can be easily done as day trips Unless you're feeble like me. I've done Sahale in a day. It's not that bad at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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