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Posted

Thanks for the good picture. Just curious, the red dots are "Removed rappel stations", but were they removed by the rockslide or by human intention?

Posted

Right you are, G, I didn't read the link. "Coincidently, the old raps stations on that side of the col had been removed the previous day because of rockfall concerns". Classic timing!

Posted

Meanwhile in the Bow Valley:

 

Bow Valley Rockfall Hazard

Subject: [MCR] Bow Valley Rockfall Hazard

Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 18:00:16 -0600

I have been working around the Bow Valley extensively over the last few weeks with a group of guides from Yamnuska, and wanted to pass on our general observations regarding a noticeable increase in rockfall events and related hazard right now at most rock climbing sites in the Valley.

 

All of the intense, saturating rainfall the Rockies have received lately seems to have undermined a lot of slopes below and above local crags and dramatically loosened things up in general. From my observations, rock conditions seem more typical of early season cragging (e.g. loose holds, perched rocks, ledge debris and seeping rock) than late summer, and are overall worse than I can recall seeing.

 

We have observed numerous rockfall events, and even at heavily used areas there seems to be an exceptional amount of loose material lying in wait for the right impetus to bring it down. In some cases, there have been very substantial hazards encountered on usually immaculate routes. As winds pick up and warmer temperatures dry out whatever remaining material is presently gluing things in place, we expect this to get worse before it gets better. The forecast for another storm cycle into the weekend probably won't help things in the near term either.

 

Play safe!

 

Carl Johnston

ACMG Rock Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Posted

That side of the BS Col (climber's right) gets pelted by rockfall of parties coming off the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire. When I was up there, I saw a fellow get trapped up there by a piano-sized block shifting onto his foot, crushing it while simultaneously pinning him in a standing position for several hours until helicopters arrived with car jacks to extricate him. It was a heck of a rescue. They flew him out, but not his stuff, so his partner was hiking out the next day with his pack, and his partner's pack somehow teetering ON TOP of his own in a wild display of imbalance and suffering.

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