Torment Peak

[Pete_H]

Torment is a big fucking choss pile.

 

From CAG Vol 2, 3rd Ed., p. 318:

 

While Torment has diminutive status in comparison to neighboring Forbidden Peak, it has attracted continued climbing interest because of its alpine setting, solid rock (Eldorado Orthogneiss), and many feasible routes (eight done during the first 11 ascents).

 

I think it's fair to say that the rock on Mt Torment is no worse than average for the North Cascades. Considering all the different routes done on it, you could make a case that the rock is better than average. The reports so far indicate that Craig Leubben was hit by ice, not rock.

 

 

When compared to most of the other gneiss that I've climbed in the area, including Skagit and Eldorado gneiss, the rock quality of Torment is a lot worse. But that's only my opinion based on personal experience.

 

Whether poor rock quality contributed to the tragic accident involving Craig Leubben has not been determined but I can't imagine there being much snow or ice on the peak this time of year except near the moat.

[dberdinka]

For a peak that attracts a fair number of climbers to alpine rock routes I would agree the rock quality is subpar. With that said it's still not all that bad at least on the south ridge

 

While it's total speculation on my part I've always found the glaciers in the head of Boston Basin to be pretty damn unstable. One summer I remember spending a day watching these enormous seracs peeling of the toe of the glacier below Forbidden's South Face and go sliding then tumbling down the smooth rock slabs below. Watched a team of three almost get creamed by one of those.

[Off_White]

I've gotten lost on Torment trying to find the S Ridge and done a couple grim pitches in mountain boots, but it was the moss in the fingerlocks on the 5.9 that was the issue not the rock quality. I've also done the usual SE face thing, and that moat problem late season is the crux of the whole deal. I didn't think the upper bit was any worse than lots of other things, though it wasn't worth raving about either.

 

Sounds like it was the moat on the SE Face that got Craig Luebben, its a remarkably nasty thing on what's ostensibly an easy route.

 

Oh, has anyone done the NW Ridge or the N Face? Surely Lowell must have? I've always been curious about those lines, but perhaps not curious enough.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I was supposed to be on Torment on 8/8 doing the Forbidden traverse. I had a bad feeling about this climb for some reason and bailed on the plans a few weeks ago.

 

[rob]

I got nailed by a rock on the south ridge two summers ago.

[dberdinka]

As alluded to by Off-White apparently the edge of the schrund collapsed beneath him.

 

Link to Article in Times

 

How many times a year do you put yourself in a similar situation?

[fresh]

I had the edge of that schrund collapse on me last summer. Luckily it was earlier in the season and the moat was narrower... the shelf of snow lodged a couple feet down making for a nasty jolt but nothing more. I'm revisiting that memory today and feeling very lucky...

[KaskadskyjKozak]

As alluded to by Off-White apparently the edge of the schrund collapsed beneath him.

 

Link to Article in Times

 

How many times a year do you put yourself in a similar situation?

 

almost one more time for this year

[Rad]

As alluded to by Off-White apparently the edge of the schrund collapsed beneath him.

 

Link to Article in Times

 

How many times a year do you put yourself in a similar situation?

 

Hopefully I'll get in the alpine without exposing myself or partners to these risks. This is exactly why I prefer rock to ice/glacier and why I refuse to do Slesse until the Pocket Glacier has slid. I'd guess that within a decade the glacier(s) on the S of Forbidden will be much like the Slesse Pocket Glacier, sliding off the slabs entirely by late summer and creating terrible hazards during the June/July transition period.

[johndavidjr]

I too am saddened and fully appreciate Luebben's climbing ability, experience and knowledge.

 

As one who failed to climb Torment some years ago, and was nearly involved at the time in a serious and foolish accident due to moat issues on SE face, I find this very interesting.

 

My partner was quite accomplished, and yet nearly went in due to whatever........his mistake.

 

I purchased Luebben's book six or seven years ago, and I wouldn't go crazy praising its writing clarity......

 

I'd blame "slick" editors at Mountaineers Books as much as author for my dissatisfaction with the book.

 

Still, I admire his authority.