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Posted

Ditto what Pete said. Whether these have been climbed before or not, they missed inclusion into the guidebooks for the range and consequently were dirty and virtually unknown. Having the internet to spray about their quality is a good thing! Few of us would have had the pleasure of climbing Acid Baby without the positiveinternet spray Mike Layton had regarding his day out with Rolf and Dan. It was the same thing with Wayne and Sol posting about Solid Gold here on cascadeclimbers, it was never in any guidebook before! If that's not a good use of this website, what it? And as we all sit around on rainy nights, looking over our maps, photos and books to plan the next trip, we aren't going to plan on heading out to prusik, or Enchantment peak, for a climb that nobody knows about!

 

As Jens mentioned regarding Gorillas in the Mist, I got a very friendly email from the folks who climbed part of the West Stuart Wall back in 1993. They made a big-wall style attempt, completing about 2/3 of the wall itself, did not climb our last 3 or 4 pitches, and never made it to the W. Ridge or the summit. Other parties had since made it up a couple pitches (free climbing alpine style) as well.

Posted

yeah, not sure if Acid baby shares part, all, or none of slings and arrows. kinda matches up, but the grade II 5.9 6p seems like a much different route. We found a bail hex atop the 1st 5.10+ pitch that an easy chimney/gulley led to. There are multiple ways up. Anyway, publish or stfu.

Posted

I talked to julie brugger recently and she does not think slings and arrows and acid baby are the same route or are even on the same formation.

 

Personally i think who did what first, what pitch where on what route, blah blah blah, is kinda pointless in the enchantments. It's all climbable, it usually protects naturally, and every winter it growns a new coat of lichen. I think the important thing is improving the condition of these neo-classics so that they do not get lost into obscurity again.

 

I think next season will be the year of the major variations, there's quite a few out there...

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