Orbit runout?

[clee03m]

One of the guidebooks call Orbit run out. I am not a huge fan of run outs. Is it better protected to go with Mary Jane Dihedral? How is the climbing on Mary Jane? Is it a pretty line? Would it be a shame to miss out on several pitches of Orbit?

 

Thanks,

 

Christine

[mattp]

Neither climb is particularly runout on any old school scale but both are slightly serious by modern standards. There is some vaguely run-out climbing that is maybe 5.7 on Orbit but the real runouts are on easier terrain up toward the top. Mary Jane is actually slightly more difficult to protect than Orbit. Both are good climbs.

[selkirk]

I wouldn't call Orbit runnout. But it's also not Condorphomine Addiction, or a single continuous crack that you can protect every 3 feet (like the headwall pitches on Outer Space). IMHO Orbit has kind of an alpine feel. You can get pieces every 5 or 10 feet, except on the easier ground (5.5 / 5.6 ) at the top where it might be 20 feet.

 

Honestly, if you can get through the Chimney the rest of it is reasonable for a solid 5.8 or 5.9 trad climber.

 

Good luck! and go get it!

[Pete_H]

MJ is fun. I would call it solid 5.9. Don't remember anything particularly runout or devious.

[goatboy]

I find the routefinding to be more challenging on Orbit the first time you do it than finding protection. Especially the dihedral pitch (might be pitch 4 or 5 I think) where you exit the dihedral and step out to the right around the corner... Not intuitive, really.

[goatboy]

Also, I find Orbit to be more sustained and a better climb than Outer Space, PITCH BY PITCH. Though the amazing handcrack pitches on OS outshine any single pitch on Orbit, overall, Orbit features better and more sustained challenges for the 5.9 leader, in my opinion. Also, it tends to be a lot less crowded, further adding to its appeal.

[mattp]

I find the routefinding to be more challenging on Orbit the first time you do it than finding protection. Especially the dihedral pitch (might be pitch 4 or 5 I think) where you exit the dihedral and step out to the right around the corner... Not intuitive, really.

 

To Goatboy's comment I'd add that on the second pitch it is a little "non-intuitive" where you can avoid a 5.9 corner as you approach the belay by stepping out left.

[Bug]

I find the routefinding to be more challenging on Orbit the first time you do it than finding protection. Especially the dihedral pitch (might be pitch 4 or 5 I think) where you exit the dihedral and step out to the right around the corner... Not intuitive, really.

Then you go up the inside of a rfc for a move or two, then traverse out right on the face to turn the corner again.

This is the section I was "warned" was run out but it took two small wires easily.

And up around that last corner is a bomber ledge that takes 2.5 inch pro.

[Bug]

Now you have too much beta.

 

I think Orbit is a 5 star route.

I give MJ dihedral 3 because of the flake.

[dirtysloper]

Congratulations Christine!