Crag routes similar to Gendarme on Stuart NR

[Frenchy]

Teanaway ridge is warm, dont lie

[newdawnfades]

Really, trying to rehearse 25 feet of climbing on a 2000ft alpine route with a longish approach/descent is missing the forest for the trees.

 

Climbing in similar styles as crux sections is pretty standard prep and, not to mention the obvious, smart.

[Drederek]

The last pitch of Godforsaken Land on the squaw is similar.

[Otto]

To the original poster: I would suggest Damnation Crack on Castle Rock is more similar to the Gendarme than any of the previous suggestions. If not, go climb it anyway, it'll be good for your Gendarme project.

 

Edit: except Godforsaken Land, haven't done it...

Edited August 8, 2009 by Otto

[Dirtyleaf]

P1 on gendarme i second what has already been said. P2: 15ft, solid fist jams feet and feet stacks than you've got a rest and the difficulties are done.

[shannonpahl]

Feet stacks - now that sounds like a great tip, thanks!

 

Did GM today, P1, P2 and the start of P3 is fun, the upper crack on P3 was hard (just got to find a more efficient way of climbing that crack).

[LostCamKenny]

Um, how about lead a bunch of routes with a 15 pound backpack until that starts to feel comfortable. Or practice clawing (A0, french freeing) your way up some harder routes so you know how to get yourself through a tough spot.

THe benefits of such a practice cannot be understated...

[Otto]

Did someone say feet stacks?

Pigeon Spire, Cooper-Kor, pitch 1

Briefly considered a layback.

Settled on feet stacks and arm bars.

 

[shannonpahl]

nice example of feet stacks.

 

A0, etc ... well practised. Agreed, "The benefits of such a practice cannot be understated"