rocketparrotlet Posted July 22, 2009 Posted July 22, 2009 My dream this summer is to climb all 5 main summits of the Liberty Bell group in a single trip with my dad. This would probably be done in two days, but we could take three if necessary. The plan is to climb all 5 summits by their easiest route, which will be some great mid-5th class climbing. We will climb Liberty Bell, Concord Tower, and Lexington Tower in the first day, then camp. The next day, we will move to the base of North Early Winters Spire, climb that, and then climb South Early Winters Spire. This will be 15-20 pitches overall, with difficulty of the towers being 5.5 - 5.7. My dad and I are both knowledgeable in basic skills such as rope management, belaying, building anchors, following, cleaning pro, etc. We can climb up to 5.9 at Index. We are just learning to lead; I would rather not lead for most of this trip. If anyone is interested in being a rope lead for this trip, please contact me and we can talk about it, and probably meet for a day at the crags to get to know each other. Phone: 425-423-9385 (ask for Mark) Email: geckozoo@gmail.com Quote
rocketparrotlet Posted July 27, 2009 Author Posted July 27, 2009 Bump Nobody's interested? -Mark Quote
fenderfour Posted July 30, 2009 Posted July 30, 2009 Sometimes dreams take longer than one summer and include more personal effort. This is asking quite a lot from a stranger. You could contact one of the guide services for a custom trip. AAI does a bunch of private trips. Quote
selkirk Posted July 30, 2009 Posted July 30, 2009 Fixed objectives You don't want to lead anything/can't do it on your own. Don't want to commit more than a day cragging to get to know your potential partners. I'd agree with FenderFour. From your post your looking for a guide, not a climbing buddy. Quote
rocketparrotlet Posted July 30, 2009 Author Posted July 30, 2009 I just can't afford a guide...I'm broke. All my money was spent on ropes and cams. I guess I'm just gonna have to call off this dream. Maybe I'll lead Liberty Bell myself in a month. -Mark Quote
eldiente Posted July 30, 2009 Posted July 30, 2009 Mark, 1.) Just go out with your Dad and lead all of the pitches yourself. Leading is way more fun and you'll have a blast. Seriously, those routes are trivial and anyone that has the fitness to walk to the base will have no problem leading these routes. Do all 5 in a day and be stoked. 2.) Solo. Why not? Again those routes are piss easy and low-angle. Self Belay if you really have to. Waiting on others to tick routes like this is going to leave you bummed. The best hand to help yourself is one attached to the end of your arm. Use it. -Nate Quote
rocky_joe Posted July 30, 2009 Posted July 30, 2009 Mark, you have more options, and better ones at that, than Nate described. Go learn to lead at a crag. Practice a bunch and get your lead confidence about you, then go out and enjoy ticking off your goals. It will be a lot more rewarding to learn and lead the climbs yourself than to find a random guy (or girl) online to do all the work for you. And you're right, guides are way too expensive. Also, don't solo what you're not comfortable leading. (Bad advice nate!) -Joe Quote
Josh Lewis Posted July 30, 2009 Posted July 30, 2009 Sounds like Liberty is more of a possibility than prevously described. Say Mark, if you want me to come with you to Mount Erie, let me know. I can get my own ride there if needed. I would be willing to repell you and such that way you can get your practice in. Don't give up, I believe you can do it! -Your friend Josh Lewis Quote
ropegoat Posted July 30, 2009 Posted July 30, 2009 I just can't afford a guide...I'm broke. All my money was spent on ropes and cams. I guess I'm just gonna have to call off this dream. Maybe I'll lead Liberty Bell myself in a month. -Mark It seems like you've committed to the tangible aspects of the sport, i.e. buying gear, but I would echo the sentiments of others and say that working on the intangible aspects (the lead head, self-reliance, and willingness to do the work to chase the dream) is really where the value in going climbing at all is. You've set a great goal for yourself- one that you can definitely work towards and achieve, if someone just handed it to you (like a guide would), it's going to feel empty compared to the achievement you'll feel figuring it out yourself. It might take you more than one summer, but I bet you can get there. Plus if you really can climb 5.9 at index, and you hire a guide to bring you up on top-rope, I would suspect you're going to end up scratching your head and saying "dang that was easy"... Quote
Crillz Posted July 30, 2009 Posted July 30, 2009 OP, If you can truly climb 5.9, you already have the climbing ability to tick off the easiest routes. Practice leading on gear for a couple of weekends, and get the summits by yourselves. Quote
Josh Lewis Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 It seems like you've committed to the tangible aspects of the sport, i.e. buying gear, but I would echo the sentiments of others and say that working on the intangible aspects (the lead head, self-reliance, and willingness to do the work to chase the dream) is really where the value in going climbing at all is. You've set a great goal for yourself- one that you can definitely work towards and achieve, if someone just handed it to you (like a guide would), it's going to feel empty compared to the achievement you'll feel figuring it out yourself. It might take you more than one summer, but I bet you can get there. Plus if you really can climb 5.9 at index, and you hire a guide to bring you up on top-rope, I would suspect you're going to end up scratching your head and saying "dang that was easy"... I don't think he's interested in a guide, not only are they expensive, but well, you don't need a guide to climb, just someone very experienced. Next summer? That would be a long time away. I think he'll do it by the end of August! Perhaps if you guys want to go with Mark, but are unsure, go to some craig place and see his abilities. I dunno, I think it can be done sooner. Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 This is where you are wrong. If you are asking somebody to "Lead" your climb, you do need a guide, you just dont want to pay for it. If you want a mentor, ask for one, and shadow the mentor on climbs they want to do. Quote
rocketparrotlet Posted July 31, 2009 Author Posted July 31, 2009 Mark, you have more options, and better ones at that, than Nate described. Go learn to lead at a crag. Practice a bunch and get your lead confidence about you, then go out and enjoy ticking off your goals. It will be a lot more rewarding to learn and lead the climbs yourself than to find a random guy (or girl) online to do all the work for you. And you're right, guides are way too expensive. Also, don't solo what you're not comfortable leading. (Bad advice nate!) -Joe I totally agree with you all the way! I'm learning to lead right now! I might be able to lead this trip myself next year, but then I'd have to find a follower. I definitely wouldn't even consider soloing this. -Mark Quote
Crillz Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 I don't think he's interested in a guide, not only are they expensive, but well, you don't need a guide to climb, just someone very experienced. Next summer? That would be a long time away. I think he'll do it by the end of August! Perhaps if you guys want to go with Mark, but are unsure, go to some craig place and see his abilities. I dunno, I think it can be done sooner. Whatever you do, make sure you do everything that this guy recommends^^^^^^^ Quote
Ponderosa Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 I would be willing to repell you... you've done that, previously. Quote
Josh Lewis Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 This is where you are wrong. If you are asking somebody to "Lead" your climb, you do need a guide, you just dont want to pay for it. If you want a mentor, ask for one, and shadow the mentor on climbs they want to do. Well, obviously a leader is needed. A guide...? Spendy! A quote comes to mind. "If you stay single, you'll here your money jingle." -Mrs. Bradley Quote
Josh Lewis Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 you've done that, previously. Yeah, but I would think doing it solo would be a bad idea.... right? Quote
rocky_joe Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 I totally agree with you all the way! I'm learning to lead right now! I might be able to lead this trip myself next year, but then I'd have to find a follower. I definitely wouldn't even consider soloing this. -Mark At that point you're looking for a partner...not a follower Quote
rocketparrotlet Posted July 31, 2009 Author Posted July 31, 2009 I totally agree with you all the way! I'm learning to lead right now! I might be able to lead this trip myself next year, but then I'd have to find a follower. I definitely wouldn't even consider soloing this. -Mark At that point you're looking for a partner...not a follower So wait...if I want someone to lead it, I'm looking for a guide. If I'm looking for someone to follow it, I'm looking for a partner, and I'm not acting as a guide...? I just don't get it. -Mark Quote
selkirk Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 If your looking for someone to lead one climb (or set of climbs) for you, that's a guide. (you have no/limited responsibility) If your looking for someone to climb with and learn from for the next few years, while you go after their objectives, that's a mentor. (You have support responsibility) If your looking for someone to get out and swing leads with on objectives that you both want, that's a partner. (shared responsibility) If your looking for someone to carry the rope and belay you up your projects, that's a belay monkey. (you have all the responsibility) If you want to carry the rope and have someone belay you up their projects, then your a guide. (again you have all the responsibility) Quote
Josh Lewis Posted July 31, 2009 Posted July 31, 2009 If your looking for someone to carry the rope and belay you up your projects, that's a belay monkey. (you have all the responsibility) Ewww Ewww.... I want to be a belay monkey. I'm fine with carrying gear and belaying people, so long as I can get out there! If you need one, you got one right here. Does a belay monkey do acual climbing? As for the other info, well said. Quote
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