backclipped Posted June 1, 2009 Posted June 1, 2009 What's with the rash of Kickboxer, Lionheart, and Blood sport-style tape gloves I see engulfing the hands, wrists, and lower forearms of welded tuft "tradsters". I'm not calling these climbers pussies or anything quite that demeaning, but take the fucking scratch will ya. And besides, where exactly to you plan on jamming on Lions Jaw. Quote
kevbone Posted June 1, 2009 Posted June 1, 2009 Tape feels good.......shouldnt this be in spray. Because that is just what you did. Quote
billcoe Posted June 1, 2009 Posted June 1, 2009 What's with the rash of Kickboxer, Lionheart, and Blood sport-style tape gloves I see engulfing the hands, wrists, and lower forearms of welded tuft "tradsters". I'm not calling these climbers pussies or anything quite that demeaning, but take the fucking scratch will ya. And besides, where exactly to you plan on jamming on Lions Jaw. Â Damn....backclipped again! Â Â Hey, were you warm over there BC ? Quote
letsroll Posted June 1, 2009 Posted June 1, 2009 You still going on about the tape jobs out in smithington. I am going to show up with full arm tape job. Quote
shapp Posted June 1, 2009 Posted June 1, 2009 One can only assume that if don't like tape at smith, then you must like to pleasure your backside with some sort of spike encrusted shaft. Quote
backclipped Posted June 1, 2009 Author Posted June 1, 2009 Right-o, shapp! I'm quite fond of the stick clip I pulled out of letsrolls bottom . And Kevbone, if I were to indulge in everthing that thought felt good I'b be either A) diseased and single B)incarcarated C)dead or D) A foolish looking poser face climbing in Yosemite boxing gloves, aiy. Quote
letsroll Posted June 2, 2009 Posted June 2, 2009 Now now no need to get personal. Just cause my reach is about the same as a stick clip and I resemble one....... Quote
backclipped Posted June 2, 2009 Author Posted June 2, 2009 I love climbing with the human stick clip. I get the benefit of the diaper and I still get to thump my chest and snear at all the store bought and garage made. Quote
shapp Posted June 3, 2009 Posted June 3, 2009 (edited) I don't think that stick clips and tape are the same issue. A hemopheliac with big balls can ditch the stick but not the tape. One deals with phyiscal mutulation the other with mental toughness. I find that by using tape and climbing more comfortably, I can focus my remaining brain cells more on my balls thereby making me climb better. Edited June 3, 2009 by shapp Quote
letsroll Posted June 3, 2009 Posted June 3, 2009 tape is aid and chicks dig scars. Â Chicks dig big But that is another topic Quote
backclipped Posted June 3, 2009 Author Posted June 3, 2009 I don't think that stick clips and tape are the same issue. A hemopheliac with big balls can ditch the stick but not the tape. One deals with phyiscal mutulation the other with mental toughness. I find that by using tape and climbing more comfortably, I can focus my remaining brain cells more on my balls thereby making me climb better. Â Have you ever climbed at Smith? I mean the park proper, not the gorge? I don't see how stepping onto Moonshine bare fisted could possibly cause mutilation. All I'm trying to say is that there is a time and place for anything, and that posturing and absurd folly has been particularly rampant in the park this spring. Â Â Quote
shapp Posted June 3, 2009 Posted June 3, 2009 (edited) You show your foolishness by refering to Moonshine, one of the most polished cracks in the park. I say good for them over-tapers, better to over-tape and be trad climbing than wearing prana and clipping bolts with no nuts. There are so many many many cracks in obscure places way off the beaten path at Smith, why don't you go get some of that instead of posing on the frontside thinking you are a hard man (I aint no hardman, just a perpertual average climber, content to climb 1000 foot 5.9 and under routes the rest of mylife). I am going to harzard a guess that I have been climbing cracks at smith longer than you have been able to wipe your backside (although my profile says Washington, I was born and raised in Oregon and spent a good chunk of my free time at smith for many years). I find it funny that you don't have too many TRs (none?) posted for any climbing area showing your burly un-taped man-hands. Tape is aid, shoes are aid, chaulk is aid, guidebooks are bigtime aid, and I also actually like real aid climbing. Get out there and do some climbing and show'em how its done. Â "Posturing and absurd folly" has been going on at smith in waves ever since I have been climbing there and probably long before. After all it is a climbing park, there are lots of other places to climb in Oregon, where you have a good chance of not seeing anyone all day long. PM me if you need some education on other places to climb in the OR. Â p.s. just having a little fun Edited June 3, 2009 by shapp Quote
backclipped Posted June 4, 2009 Author Posted June 4, 2009 (edited) "Better over-tape and be trad climbing than wearing Prana and clipping bolts with no nuts." Touche. Alright, he's my confessional: I own a single pair of Prana brand pants...and an old button up shirt. I'm the bolt clipper in my regular climbing partnership. I enjoy face climbing. I have zero interest in crags like Trout Creek, or skating around in the gorge. I have, however, taken to the sharp end on a few "obscure" Smith trad climbs. Some of these climbs, White Cloud comes to mind, I will never climb again. Â TRs--Trip Reports. Mmmmm. I graduated from SUNY Plattsburgh with a journalism degree. That was back in 1999. I haven't done much writing since. In my opinion trip reports are too much work: take notes on the outing, drag along a camera, download images onto computer, compile something post-worthy so it doesn't get flamed, and/or people lost........way too much work. I'd much rather lap Heinous Cling and sneer at Jean Claude as he "jams" his way up Moonshine......just kidding, I'm not strong enough to run laps on Heinous...I'll be a few climbs to the right taking on that second to last bolt on Wedding Day. Â 1000 ft of 5.9....right with you on that one. Â P.S. I enjoy the banter. P.P.S. Oh, I've got the skinny on some find non-Smith climbin'. The best 5.9 multi-pitch in Oregon is hidden in these hills. I'm gunna leave Beacon to Letsroll...rains too much over there. Edited June 4, 2009 by backclipped Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 4, 2009 Posted June 4, 2009 It's a good thing for the rest of us that not everyone thinks TRs are too much work to write! Quote
billcoe Posted June 4, 2009 Posted June 4, 2009 YEAH COME ONNNNNN! BRING THE TRIP REPORTS YA PUSSY!!!!! COME ONNNNN! LOL! Â I was thinking 3 things about tape. Â 1st) dude might have been taped up for 5.7 Lions Jaw cause he was warming up for Karate Crack or Trezlar. 2 harder than 5.7 rough edged jamming cracks. Maybe dude is a 5.9 climber pushing it? Â 2nd) I have noticed that I have a few times got permanent marks that look like age spots from super jams that I hung on which had sharp spots pressing into me. Â 3rd) I don't tape much, but I noticed that on long cracks, tape greatly aids the speed you can climb. 3 of us, pitching it out traditional style and not simulclimbing or doing gimmicks, climbed the 8 (?) pitches of Serenity Crack/Sons of Yesterday in @ 3-1/2 hours car to car. That includes waiting at pitch 3 as we rapped down after finishing for the untaped kids who had been sighing loudly and complaining about having to follow 3 "old" guys as they walked up still on the ground as we were just starting out. As Sons was never beat out with pins, the rock is sharp, being taped you can just slam in your hands and go, and not have to cautiously feel around for the best (non-painful) jam. I would think this is a good thing at Smith as it gets so crowded over there. Â Your results may vary of course:-) Â Journalism major eh? Bring it! Please! Â Quote
letsroll Posted June 4, 2009 Posted June 4, 2009 1000 ft of 5.9....right with you on that one. Â P.S. I enjoy the banter. P.P.S. Oh, I've got the skinny on some find non-Smith climbin'. The best 5.9 multi-pitch in Oregon is hidden in these hills. I'm gunna leave Beacon to Letsroll...rains too much over there. Â I guess if you get all tech on me but I don't know it is "the best" Top 5 for sure. Beacon has a couple right up there but that is in WA even if us Portlanders think of it as an Oregon crag. Best in Central Oregon..YES!!!! Next time I am rapping off that sucker. Quote
billcoe Posted June 4, 2009 Posted June 4, 2009 P.P.S. Oh, I've got the skinny on some find non-Smith climbin'. The best 5.9 multi-pitch in Oregon is hidden in these hills. Â Share!!!! Quote
letsroll Posted June 4, 2009 Posted June 4, 2009 (edited) He would be tar and feathered. Ran out of town and forced to service the old toothless ladies of bend out at Smith while doing laps on Lions Jaw taped up. Edited June 4, 2009 by letsroll Quote
backclipped Posted June 4, 2009 Author Posted June 4, 2009 Billcoe, I see your point. There is a time and a place for everything. I'm heading up to Tieton this weekend...and yes, I'm bringing a roll of tape. Mmmm, warming up for Trezlar on Lion's Jaw? I prefer warming up for climbs on neighboring routes, but anything is possible and other perspectives can be preferable. I think Sundown would be a better way to warm up for Trezlar. Shit, I'd forget how to climb approaching Trezlar from Lion's Jaw....and I'd have to hand the rope over to Jlag...he digs that stuff. Â Majored is past tense. I turned my brain off years ago. I prefer the mind dulling process of sending skis through $40,000 Wintersteiger machines. Â Share what? Oh that. Yeah, well, there is a laser sight trained on my skull...I'm sure you understand. Quote
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