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mtnrgr

The wrong Path

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I'm a sinner!

(gospel music)

I've been led down the wrong path for years. I've been hanging with the wrong crowd. I am a sport climber. For reasons of convenance and money, I've been damned. I take the easy wrong over the hard right. I am a member of the placated masses, a follower in others. I'm forced by my sin to climb only by roads on faces with short approach hikes. I've sunk so low as to climb at Fossil Rock. (sob)

Never do I get to blaze new routes or experence wilderness. Solitude illudes me, crowds engulf me. The Mountains call me I must climb high away form civilazation!

I don't want to be a sport climber. I swear I want to climb trad, I really do. Even Alpine. But I only know others like myself. Someone, please, show me the light. Someone save me from my continued sin. Help! before I go further into enternal damnation of being a boulderer or ...dare I say... a Gym Rat. NO!!!!!!!!

 

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Just let me know if you need a partner.

All you need are shoes that fit, I've got all the rest...

Sincerely,

The Gym Rat

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I took a look at Fossil Rock a few days ago, first time. Creative holds!

The handful of 3-star-classic routes I climbed were fun. Wish I had a bicycle for the 3 mile approach, though. The madrona trees were a first to me, don't remember such a presence near climbing crags.

Highpoint: getting to flail midweek on classics without locals pointing and laughing

Lowpoint: an empty beer bottle remaining by a belay seat; i wasn't sad this bottle was left as trash, i wasn't even sad it was empty (bullshit! i was sooooo thirsty at 10pm after a day of 80+ temps...), it's just that it was a heineken!.....

Redeemer: going to flail on classics at Index in a handful of hours, hopefully nobody else will see me.

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Geez I just hate 5:30 am Dawn Patrol...the lake alwasys looks too peaceful to disturb - until I pop off the wake the first time.

Madrona trees and Turkey Buzzards at Mt. Erie. But you'd better just stay at Fossil Rock it sounds waaaayyyyyy better than Mt. Erie.

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Hey lamebone,

I got a decent sport rack (rope, shoes, harness, 9 QD) and a set of BD stoppers, but that's it. Most importantly I ain't doing jack this weekend.

email me at daposlusny@hotmail.com if you want to meet someplace.

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The blind leading the blind.

Please post your destination as soon as you choose one so that the rest of us can avoid being involved in a rescue.

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Index was sweet yesterday; warm, little wind, no people, no dogs.

Hey, route question. I climbed a route and saw another one, but niether are in my 1976 guidebook, and I wanted beta.

Directly above GNS is a crappy little trail, very steep, with many missiles waiting to launch. This reaches a contour trail, I went left to a 100-foot wall with 4 or more routes.

Middle-right is a right-facing flake edge; it was a gas! Full on lieback most all the way up, with sparse rests. I suppose if you were a crusty trad klan member you could squeeze-chimney behind the flake but somebody has placed 7 or 8 bolts just outside the 'chimney' which was a good thing for me 'cuz I didn't have 7 BigBros.

The anchors looked somewhat suspect, thin hangers, smallish-bolt, but what do I know. A nice fat tree sits on the top ledge and there was a sling around it, and a big tree maybe 20 feet up the forested hillside also had a sling on it. The bolts enroute were typical, they seemed solid.

So, can somebody offer me a name and rating? I'd suggest 'Keep Moving' 5.10b

And there's this white stained vertical streak just right, with anchors at top. All of the bolts have been removed, except the last. This line looks sick! Maybe I don't know what an arty 12 looks like but it looks harder than 12. Anybody?

 

 

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Index was nice yesterday. The huge pumpy, bolted flake I think your talking about is Gorilla in my Dreams 5.10b. Fun route. Don't know what the others are.

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it is the winkie dinkie cliff. the route you climbed is the gorilla my dreams .10a it is a super fun route. iadmit as a young trad klan member i have clipped the bolts, though on tr i have tried to chimmeny climb(for the practice) the other routeson that cliff fromleft to right are house of happiness .10b not too bad, timberjack super fun .8 and then some .12 called virgin on the ridiculous. the slings above the anchor is the descent from mid-wall(another fun cliff)

i recommend you get Darryl Cramer's guide book 'Sky Valley Rock'. it also includes static point. he and his friends have done a great job putting the book together and updating old and suspect anchors.

 

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Virgin on the Ridiculous..... yep, just about the most fitting route name I've never climbed. But the clips have all been removed; I wonder why?

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I just did Gorilla my Dreams a couple weeks ago. It is bolted, but it's a fun pumpfest!

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