Icicle - Warrior Wall

[shaoleung]

Just did Prime Rib... I think. What a great climb. Book says 10 bolts, but what we climbed today had about 14 bolts. Book says 5.10b, but felt harder. There seems to be some development going on up there... did I get onto the wrong climb? Any Beta?

 

Thanks!

Edited April 8, 2009 by shaoleung

[Rad]

Prime rib is usually done as three short pitches, but a single 60m rope will take you to the top anchor (or double 60s get you back down to the deck).

 

The first pitch is a short vertical wierd crack system followed by an easy ramp. The second pitch is also quite short and involves thin slab and facework protected by copious bolts. The third pitch has a few fun layback and groove moves, some arete, a small roof, and a handcrack to the anchors. 10b seemed about right, with the crux around the third bolt in the middle pitch.

 

Fun climb, though I liked Heart of Gold better (except that terrible traversing pitch).

[genepires]

prime rib is old school 10b. It seems like many of the routes on warrior wall are old school and a bit harder than elsewhere in the icicle. very sweet area with lots of work going into it this last year.

 

did you start prime rib on the far left side of the formation? The start, like Rad states, is a straight in, sort of crummy, wide, feels slight overhanging crack. I don't think any other climb on the wall has such a start.

 

the second pitch, after a short corner and fat ledge rest, has a wicked short traverse to an bolt protected slabby arete.

 

hope that helps.

[lancegranite]

Lots of fun stuff up there.

[ZONK]

Cool Picture there Bud !

[TrogdortheBurninator]

The number of bolts in the book should be the max bolts for a single pitch. If you were climbing a cool frictiony arete on the 2nd pitch, you were on the right route. I remember the crux being challenging, but 5.10 in the icicle usually is for me. Didnt feel at all out of line with other routes of the grade.

[shaoleung]

did you start prime rib on the far left side of the formation? The start, like Rad states, is a straight in, sort of crummy, wide, feels slight overhanging crack. I don't think any other climb on the wall has such a start.

 

That sounds like what we did. The start was just right of a steep drainage gully. The slightly overhanging fist crack to start was pretty dirty with spring melt grime. The second pitch was great 11'worth slab.

 

Thanks for the help!

[Rad]

Has anyone done the 10d thin crack dihedral about 100ft to the right (can't recall name and don't have the book handy). It looks really good, but the finish looks like a gravel mantle into a bush.

[Sol]

is that the original route? heard that its been recently cleaned as is quality. mr granite?

[ZONK]

"Original Route" .10d Wicked & Steller, no bush involved new anchor and cleaned last year.

[dberdinka]

Recently Gene and I climbed several other routes up there that were cleaned up last year.

 

Beta Here

 

Weekday Warrior and P1 of Potatoe Chip Flake are nice meaty Leavenworth 5.9 cracks. P1 of Hot Shot is steep and well protected with a cool stem to jug finish.

 

The Original Route looks sustained and intimidating.

 

Definitely worth a visit. You could spend a couple full days in the Duty Dome/Warrior Wall Area now and climb nothing but 5.9, 5.10a and 5.10b pitches.

[Rad]

Cool linka Berdinka. I see it lists Prime Rib as 10c.

 

Thanks to all y'alls for the new routes and cleaning and refitting of old routes. I'll put Original on the list - it is such a striking line and the falls look totally clean.

[dberdinka]

Dukes of Ballet is well worth doing as well. With a bit of A0 on the first pitch (yarding and standing on bolts) it goes at mid-10 I recall and is 4 pitches long with a mix of crack and face climbing.

[lancegranite]

The Original route is an old Pat Timson line, really fun.

The Warrior is a nice cliff that sees shade in the mornings.