geoff Posted March 29, 2009 Posted March 29, 2009 (edited) Trip: Steins Pillar - Northeast face Date: 3/26/2009 Trip Report: My bro and I made it to the top. We camped at the trail head, hiked to the pillar in the morning, climbed to the top of P3 and hauled our shit up there. There's a huge ledge for each pitch but P4 and that one still aint so bad. Camped on P3 ledge and climbed to the top on day 2. This is really a one day climb, only 5 shorter pitches, but we wanted to practice hauling and bivy. The Chongo ratcheting haul system worked great. Photos to come when I figure out my new camera. Gear Notes: P1 one could use a 5 or 6 BD cam to get started but otherwise a small trad rack is all that is required due to the large amount of fixed gear. Leave the big cam at top of P1. P2 requires some gear but a single rack of nuts and some small cams up to about a .5 was all I used even though we carried much much more. A second cam in the .5 range came in handy here but this was the only size where doubles are required. Also, I used a 2 BD to protect move on to the High Black Knob and .75 BD for very last move at top of climb. Finally, next party may want to bring some webbing, maybe two 20ft sections, to extend anchor at top to ease possible rope stuck situation. We rapped directly off chains with no problems but others have mentioned issues. Oh and stick clip came in handy on upper pitches. Approach Notes: Nice trail maybe one mile and not too hilly. Without a 100 pound pig on your back it shouldn't take very long. Edited March 31, 2009 by geoff Quote
billcoe Posted March 29, 2009 Posted March 29, 2009 Nice work on the Pillar. This should get you started:-) Kyle on left, Geoff on the right ON THE TOP! Quote
mccallboater Posted March 31, 2009 Posted March 31, 2009 What's the "usual" route? the aid route or the 5.10 route? Quote
geoff Posted March 31, 2009 Author Posted March 31, 2009 This was the Northeast face aid route. However, it did involve some free climbing. Quote
miker Posted March 31, 2009 Posted March 31, 2009 Looks like some fun. Wish I coulda been there. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted March 31, 2009 Posted March 31, 2009 Looks like you had pretty good weather... How long did it take to get to the P3 ledge? Quote
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