Climbing Mt. Hood Next Weekend

[skyflyoblivion]

Hello,

 

I'm looking to take a stab at Mt. Hood next weekend and I was wondering if anybody had any route suggestions for this time of year. I've never been up Hood before so I'm looking for a fast easy climb with minimal risk. Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated!

[111]

easiest way up is west crater/old chute. Pearly Gates is not really doable anymore as an "easy route".

 

 

 

 

[billbob]

Suggestion/Advice: Edit out the words "easy" and "minimal" from your post.

[Alewarrior]

Old chute is doable. Be ready for a pretty skinny exposed ridge when you top out on the chute. About 50 yards, then it widends out and you can breath easy again. On the way down there is a chute that leads to the old chute proper if you dont want to brave the knife edge again. right before it gets thin again. Come to think of it you could ascend that chute to avoid the ridge alltogether but you expose yourself to rock/ice fall for a bit. you decide.Go for it.

Edited March 11, 2009 by Alewarrior

[billbob]

Hood summit ridge(s) deserve a lot of respect at times, makes for good practice, it does seem easier in poor vis. I heard a rumor that, when winds are really high and gusting, even the strongest badass climber goes au cheval or crawls across.

[ivan]

[billbob]

Above pic taken by yours truly early December '08, Hood summit ridge. That's Ivan in the background. Don't ask about the rope. Or why I just sat there on my ass whilst he did his monkey boy impersonation over to the true summit

 

Is there a rating for soft rime + alpine ice mix?

 

 

 

[Mtguide]

Looks to me like maybe you sat there because you were smart. Though admittedly, I don't know what the temperature was like,perhaps that chandelier/lacework ice was pretty strong. Evidently strong enough for Ivan to get across; but still-- :: windpuffed angelfood cake ice.

Edited March 13, 2009 by Mtguide

[spotly]

Pearly Gates is not really doable anymore as an "easy route".

 

111, what's changed and when? Just curious. We did it in Feb a few years ago and getting to the gates then seemed kinda thin for an "easy" route. The gates were pretty cool - blue ice in the left one and steep powder in the right. Of course, we didn't have any previous knowledge to judge the route by; just figured anyone trying it in heels or with a dog would have to have been an idiot

[ivan]

the p.g. used to be dog/high-heel accessible - seems like its been 5 years maybe since it's gotten tricky for that critical 50 feet or so?

[Bishopp66]

Pearly Gates is not really doable anymore as an "easy route".

 

111, what's changed and when? Just curious. We did it in Feb a few years ago and getting to the gates then seemed kinda thin for an "easy" route. The gates were pretty cool - blue ice in the left one and steep powder in the right. Of course, we didn't have any previous knowledge to judge the route by; just figured anyone trying it in heels or with a dog would have to have been an idiot

 

Haha, the line about the dog makes me laugh. I climbed Hood last year via the old Chute and about 1/2 way to the summit, I thought I saw a dog in the distance... What the F#&K is that I thought. Got a little closer and yes, it's a dog comming down from the summit of Hood. Damn, that's some dog I remember thinking. Got home the next day and saw the news... blind climber (with dog) climbs Mt. Hood. It can be done.

[Joe_Poulton]

 

I walked that back in 1999 after Leuthold, when I got across...I thought why didn't we have a rope for that...damn good it wasn't winding.

 

Anyone do a snowpit after the warming? I did one during the last storm above T-line and it was nasty.

Edited March 14, 2009 by Joe_Poulton

[111]

 

111, what's changed and when?

I haven't inspected it too closely, but word has it there is a short steep portion (of rime typically) at the top of hogsback. I have watched several people go up PG the last few years, but they had 2 tools and said pro wasn't really an option. Old Chute/west crater is plenty exciting right now (might mellow out after the big dump this week and next though)

[jfs1978]

Trying to cram a "workout" in before work tomorrow...just SS if the going is good.

 

Anybody have some current upper mountain snow conditions to report? Slogalicious thigh deep pow-pow...or has the wind kept things manageable enough for a quick ascent?

 

No skis. I have yet to see the light. Sloggin' it out is the way of the true warrior...anyhoo.

 

Yes, am looking at NWAC. Considerable above 6k.

 

thanks and cheers.

[WageSlave]

Did any of you folks get up on Hood? How shitty are the snow conditions?

[Joe_Poulton]

I skied Timberline yesterday....snow was fast iced slush below lodge....above lodge snow was fast with new snow falling...didn't dig a pit as I was inbounds...will be venturing onto the north side next Thursday/Friday to hit some ice and ski....maybe.

[Alewarrior]

I must admit I did it because I was roped up with 2 other guys. I knew it was there, I knew What i was in for, and I gave it some thought all the way up the old chute. But but in the end I said "Fuck it. I came this far. What the hell" I am truly glad I did it and will never hesitate to traverse it again. If in trouble, yell "Falling" hurl yourself off the north ridge, the lead will jump off the south ridge and then you can figure it out from there.