[TR] Beacon Rawk - The Bar 9/20/2008

[kevbone]

kevin,

do you really want a bunch of sport climbs at beacon?

 

 

No. Just because an arete gets bolted does not mean there are a bunch of sport climbs at Beacon

[kevbone]

a route w/ a bunch of bolts is cool if it's necessary to get to a cool trad route

 

Do you not see the irony in this statement? “Bunch of bolts” ……”cool trad route” used in the same sentence. The first pitch of YW is an ENTIRE sport route. All the bolts on the second pitch are unnecessary. Where is the bitching about that?

 

 

also your war analogy is a wee-bit daft - by your logic, hitler's invasion of poland wasn't a war until the poles started shooting back

 

 

I disagree. Hilter killed and maimed. The only thing hurt by a bolted arête would be your ego.

 

I don’t want to see “a ton” of bolted arêtes either. One of two maybe. That is different than a ton. You are missing the point.

 

[kevbone]

kevin,

you even troll when it's about a place you love;

 

 

Who is trolling? Not me. JH is fighting for what he believes. I am doing the same. I want everyone to have a voice. Not just the old school.

[kevbone]

This thread needs to be moved somewhere else, clearly this has nothing to do with the original TR. Move to spray please.

 

-Nate

 

This may be off the original topic but I dont see anyone spraying. We are simply having a conversation. If anything it needs to be moved to the rock climbing forum. Beacon in the "Oregon" cascades? I dont see it.......

[denalidave]

Blah, blah, blah, anyone want to go climb there instead of hashing the same old shite?

 

 

[Cobra_Commander]

stop being a dumbass kevin

[pink]

same stupid shite

[kevbone]

stop being a dumbass kevin

 

How so? JH is fighting for his agenda, why cant I fight for mine?

[ivan]

you beacon climbers are a strange breed, you guys crack me up! especially markd!

tyler, when you gonna come work somma yer aid magic round here, eh? plenta fun shit here!

[pink]

aid majic hey rocky... [video:youtube]PrEkbIHlV1E

 

 

 

Edited September 27, 2008 by pink

[pink]

again.......

[pink]

Edited September 27, 2008 by pink

[ivan]

ahhhh!

 

so today i got my revenge and finished the climb - definetly impressed you freed all that, nate! the roof was very fun, especially blowing out a nut above the roof and falling way back below it and having to connect etrier to etrier to climb back outta space back onto route

 

that second pitch needs a shit ton of big nuts! went through everything i had on my double set and was still scratching and sketching

 

awesome route - so glad it's been cleaned and i didn't have to do it

 

the first pitch goes much easier the second time around, but even taking a lap on it on toprop after joe led it this evening the last part is wicked hard - 10d there? the roof is definetly harder but it's just a swift kick in the nuts having to do that hard last part after climbing all that way - glad my fifi technique was more efficient than joe's holy-shit-what-did-i-do-to-myself? improve act

 

that last pitch is mega-classic - no mercy! bring plenty of gear!

 

hopefully geoff's bro will get up some of the great shots he got of folks on route?

 

did you do anythign after stepphenwulf nate?

[ivan]

me climbing on the upper pitch - thanx for the pix kyle!

i needed my etriers to get past the roof, but ditched them there for geoff to follow

note the tag-line - far-out!

geoff at the roof

look at all those other goddamn roofs what to fuck-wit!

[billcoe]

That's some cool shit Ivan.

 

Kevin, Gordon retro bolted Waynes old line on the front thinking it was an FA. It was clearly out of bounds, right by the water fountain and damn near next to the "no climbing over there sign", the rangers gave him a ticket that although it was later not upheld in court, was $75 a bolt. I think he had 9 bolts on it that were all later erased. Do that math on a 300' arete with bolts 7 feet apart.

 

 

[ivan]

hey, but at least he won't have to pay for a lawyer!

 

noted w/ humor y-day kevin that the arete just to the right of me in the pics above, just below the roof, has several bolts - part of smooth dancer, maybe? whatever it is, it leads to the "crack to nowhere" which has me currently titillated

[denalidave]

me climbing on the upper pitch - thanx for the pix kyle!

i needed my etriers to get past the roof, but ditched them there for geoff to follow

note the tag-line - far-out!

geoff at the roof

look at all those other goddamn roofs what to fuck-wit!

Nate sent the second pitch of TF today. Looks pretty sweet, but I wouldn't know as I got shut down by the roof. Suppose I could have aided fested it but my hall pass had already expired anywho. Had my hands full on the sketchy 5.9 1st pitch and managed to run out of slings just below the anchors. Still anxious to get on that second pitch now that it's all cleaned up.

[pink]

That's some cool shit Ivan.

 

Kevin, Gordon retro bolted Waynes old line on the front thinking it was an FA. It was clearly out of bounds, right by the water fountain and damn near next to the "no climbing over there sign", the rangers gave him a ticket that although it was later not upheld in court, was $75 a bolt. I think he had 9 bolts on it that were all later erased. Do that math on a 300' arete with bolts 7 feet apart.

 

 

ooooooooh noooooooo, when did this happen mr. bill?

[Farrgo]

I'm not sure the first pitch is 5.9. The last 20 feet before the bolts is pretty hard. Both time I was wishing those bolts had been put in a few feet lower so you don't have to do the sketchy stem to snag them.

[denalidave]

I'm not sure the first pitch is 5.9. The last 20 feet before the bolts is pretty hard. Both time I was wishing those bolts had been put in a few feet lower so you don't have to do the sketchy stem to snag them.

 

Hard, but at least the pro is sketchy...

[pink]

should've worn his sketchers

[ivan]

hey dave - it'll make you happy to know jim says the 5.9 rating is just the lower part - the upper part is in fact much harder - just ask joe!

[denalidave]

hey dave - it'll make you happy to know jim says the 5.9 rating is just the lower part - the upper part is in fact much harder - just ask joe!

Yeah, I'd say it was 10, like a few other sandbags at Beacon...

[JosephH]

Nate, good job on the send...

 

I still don't have time to respond to anything here other than to say there is nothing remotely 5.9 about the first pitch of TF and anyone - anyone - claiming otherwise is full of sh#t. I'm sick with something I apparently can't shake and only rears up when I stress myself, like when climbing, so can't really muster a bunch of energy, but I'm not so damn sick I don't know what a 5.9 is. And if the first pitch of TF is 5.9, then YW is a 5.7 and Dods Jam and FFS are 5.8s.

[kevbone]

That's some cool shit Ivan.

 

Kevin, Gordon retro bolted Waynes old line on the front thinking it was an FA. It was clearly out of bounds, right by the water fountain and damn near next to the "no climbing over there sign", the rangers gave him a ticket that although it was later not upheld in court, was $75 a bolt. I think he had 9 bolts on it that were all later erased. Do that math on a 300' arete with bolts 7 feet apart.

 

 

I remember those bolts.....and I remember them getting axed....

 

 

What were the tickets for?