[TR] Beacon Rawk - The Bar 9/20/2008

[denalidave]

I've taken a 30 footer on a #3 - works for me and way, way better than no pro at all...

Heard that!

 

Although I rarely rack up with my lowe balls anymore, I flight tested them quite a few times when they first came out. Even though I never had one fail on a fall, I never gained much faith in them. Still better than nothing and often just enough to get you through the thin sections...

[billcoe]

Must be a pic of Bill C's rack closet, eh?

 

Nah, my stuffs more disorganized and much more incomplete. However, interestingly enough, you're probably looking at some stuff in that pic Joseph has actually found and just outright bought, donated and shipped to Corsica for Stephan's Nut Museum.

[JosephH]

Ha, those are my ancient CMI I-Beams and a couple of my old Forrest Chimney Chocks too. Yeah, I and a bunch of other folks around the world, keep an eye out for old stuff that Stephane is still looking for. The amazing part is he, Marty Karabin, and Ken Yeager of the Yosemite Museum are all folks with ordinary means of survival and yet have somehow managed to amass these just remarkable gear collections.

 

It'd all be rotting in a box in my basement if it were me, but those guys track down the designers, do patent searches, and in general figure out the origin, ancestry, and stories of every piece in their collections. I'm just glad to be able to help out as someone needs to preserve this aspect of our collective history and it sure as hell isn't going to be me.

 

And Bill recently donated his pristine Dolt Piton and a fat check to Ken Yeager and the Yosemite Climbing Museum so that sucker is now prominently on display in the Valley.

[JosephH]

Pink, are you coming up next week?

[denalidave]

Pretty cool read, though I just skimmed it and mostly looked at the vintage hardware.

 

Any of you guys ever get some of those wired bliss cams that were supposedly made in some guys garage circa early 90's? I have a set and don't use em anymore. They seemed very similar to metolious, served me well back in the day.

[Farrgo]

I figured that replacing any bolts would require some serious conversation with the SP. Maybe I just need to rack a couple brass ones when I try that line. Direct looks scary... definately a proud send for any would-be suitor.

[pink]

Pink, are you coming up next week?

[JosephH]

[kevbone]

I figured that replacing any bolts would require some serious conversation with the SP.

 

Nah.....just go do it.

[billcoe]

 

Any of you guys ever get some of those wired bliss cams that were supposedly made in some guys garage circa early 90's? I have a set and don't use em anymore. They seemed very similar to metolious, served me well back in the day.

 

The 3 cam unit, the very thing that Metolius makes to this day, was invented by an Oregonian who climbed a lot at Smith named Steve Byrne. Pretty good guy and an excellent climber. They were made underground for many years by Steve, because Jardines patent was still live. One the patent ended, Steve gave Doug, his friend, at Metolius, permission to make them. Later he started making them as well under his own label- Wired Bliss, after he'd moved to Az. Then he later expanded to 4 cam units as well.

 

At least that's how I understand it to be, but I hadn't seen Steve since he had moved to Az, so most of this is all 3rd hand. I had friends who climbed with Steve a bit, and on occasion I'd get my grubby hands on one of Steve's "illegal" underground loaner TCU's for a route or 2. For back then, 80's, they were the shizz.

 

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I figured that replacing any bolts would require some serious conversation with the SP.

 

It may. For new bolts, the climbing management plan that climbers and rangers wrote down and agreed too, is that the Beacon rock climbing association needs to approve them in advance, or the park rangers.

[kevbone]

the climbing management plan that climbers and rangers wrote down and agreed too

 

Bill. Which climbers would you be referring too?

[kevbone]

Seems kinda funny how JH worked really hard replacing anchors simply to let the park service know that the climbers can manage the climbing area ourselves.....yet we have to ask them to add or replace a bolt.

[ivan]

I figured that replacing any bolts would require some serious conversation with the SP. Maybe I just need to rack a couple brass ones when I try that line. Direct looks scary... definately a proud send for any would-be suitor.

FWIW, i've been hanging out on a bunch of the old, scary bolts out at beacon this season and not had any epics (unlike some of the old pins! ) - course then, i haven't taken any giant whippers on them either - jeebus, the whole bolt ladder on top of s'wolf looks like it could zip out though if a great big phat-ass like me were to take a screamer at the top!

[Farrgo]

As far as 2nd wind is concerned, I think it would be pretty problematic if that bolt broke. Would lead to a biggish fall sideways back into a dihedral. It looks like it would be a couple hard moves before and after the bolt. Bill its your route isn't it? What say you? Replace a bolt or not?

[markd]

Any of you guys ever get some of those wired bliss cams that were supposedly made in some guys garage circa early 90's? I have a set and don't use em anymore. They seemed very similar to metolious, served me well back in the day.

 

i have one and used to use it all the time. they were made in flagstaff, az as far as i remember.

[markd]

What say you? Replace a bolt or not?

 

i say replace! it's a good looking route that would get done more if it had a good bolt.

[kevbone]

Remember to ask the "man" before you go drilling away......

[billcoe]

As far as 2nd wind is concerned, I think it would be pretty problematic if that bolt broke. Would lead to a biggish fall sideways back into a dihedral. It looks like it would be a couple hard moves before and after the bolt. Bill its your route isn't it? What say you? Replace a bolt or not?

 

That one's not my route Farrgo: but I do have a Theron Moses made tuning fork that looks a bit too shiny if anyone wants or needs to borrow it. I would just let the park folks know you are going to replace a bolt due to safety concerns and then do it (ASAP if you're heading up there is my opinion). If anyone feels they want a real pro style bolt plugged in, touch base with JH and go do it together.

 

I have hardware I'll gladly donate to the cause if anyone pleading poverty wants it or needs it, but I'm too busy elsewhere as I look at the coming snowfall (and hunting season too) about to close my spot in the hills to get there and do it.

[kevbone]

touch base with JH and go do it together.

 

Why JH?

[ivan]

touch base with JH and go do it together.

 

Why JH?

b/c he's the secretary of state and ambassador to the dark lords, duh

 

you gonna be out there 2morrow nate? i feel obligated to beat you to it since you finished takes fist before me!

[Farrgo]

ya ill see you there. but i'll probably be drinking beer rather than doing the comp. that being said, anyone want to climb at beacon tomorrow before the ice fest?

[ivan]

that's waht i meant dooode - i'll be at beacon 'roudn 8 w/ geoff - we're gonna finish TF first, but then i figured on either doing riverside (interested?) or coming back down and taking a look at second wind

[Farrgo]

ya i'll be there one way or another. riverside looks fun except for the jungle after halfway.

[kevbone]

riverside looks fun except for the jungle after halfway.

 

And it needs a new anchor.

[billcoe]

touch base with JH and go do it together.

 

Why JH?

 

How many bolts have you replaced out there?