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[TR] Dragontail - Serptine Arete 9/9/2008

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Trip: Dragontail - Serptine Arete


Date: 9/9/2008


Trip Report:

Two weeks ago David and I had planned a great two day trip which would consist of the west ridge of prusik the first day and dragontail the second day. Well with the combination of bad weather, me forgetting my rock climbing shoes and all around laziness we only did prusik. So this time we returned with a vengence! And better weather!


After a day of climbing down in the icicle we found ourselves up entirely too early at colchuck lake.




We arrived at the base of the route only to find we were not the only ones up this early. Infact, some other person had decided to try and ascend colchuck glacier - with one ice axe, on a completely exposed glacier ice. Needless to say it was enertaining to watch. Shortly after we decided to start climbing.


The first true/roped pitch on the way up to the big ledge on the black tower (David leading):



I was lucky enough to lead the next pitch. All I have to say is, great stuff!


Up, up...



And away!



Me looking down at David on the next pitch.



After that we just used 30m of the rope and started simul climbing. At first the climb was easy yet enjoyable, kind of similar to the north ridge of forbidden, however this quickly changed. Nevertheless, the views were still great.



Closin' in on the summit...



Finally we made it



Time to celebrate! I'm trying to get sponsored by rainier...



All in all, great day in the mountains. The first half of the route was lots of fun climbing, while the second half, as advertised, leaves much to be desired. Much thanks to David for being a great climbing partner yet again.


SOBO: Hopefully these pictures will actually work! The endless summer continues...


Gear Notes:



Approach Notes:

The usual, but just a note on the descent...the snow coming of dragontail was pretty much a complete sheet of ice.



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Looks awesome Kevin. Climbing Adams this weekend if you want to go. Not as ambitious as Stuart, but you are welcome to come. Leaving Friday after work. Call me if you are interested.

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Kick ass climb, Rob W. and I just did the W. Ridge of Stuart yesterday. Dragontail / Serpentine Arete has long been on my tick list. Maybe next year!

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Nicely done! And the pics look just awesome.



Welcome back, man! How was Stuie Saturday? Wet?

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