CREVASSE-BURGSHRUND WARNING SOUTH CLIMB MT HOOD

[Jay Chute]

There is a very large and hidden Bergshrung-Crevasse 2/3 of the way up the "Old Chute" or "Mazama Chute" on the South Climb of Hood. This warning should be taken seriously. I fell into it chest deep and arms out to the sides with my legs dangling into open space Sunday morning. When i kicked my right leg up and out to the surface I made the hole that I punched through bigger and saw 20 feet below me a huge Ice piller with deep blackness on all sides of it. There are signs of this bergshrund looking up the chute to the left and they don't indicate how large and open it is under the snow there. THIS IS NOT THE BERGSHRUND ON THE HOGSBACK that is gaping and obvious.

[ivan]

if'n you're climbing hood in september that ain't the only thing to be worrying about!

[111]

thanks for finding it for the rest of us! Someones gotta do it.

[dan_forester]

wow, it was your lucky day.

[danhelmstadter]

thanks for the beta,

 

that musta been pretty scary! were u alone? -(not to find u wrong)- just makes the experience all the more scary - i woulda probally dropped a load in my pants.

 

are u just gonna write it off as a rare happening, or are u gonna change your ways (methods) a little? - just curious.

Edited September 11, 2008 by danhelmstadter

[ropegoat]

Jay,

 

Thanks for posting the warning. It was definitely an exciting day on the mountain.

 

All- I was Jay's partner for that day, and we had an awesome day. As I was there, and under the same conditions, I will say that both Jay and I learned something significant about late season, late in the day, warm conditions snow travel. Upon reviewing the situation, we did find surface signs that would have alerted us to the presence of the cravasse had we noticed them just before continuing down the slope. There were many reasons we did not notice them, and were not roped up- a trip report is forthcoming that will explain some of this. IMHO- our only mistakes were fatigue and allowing ourselves to be surprised (both of us have climbed the old Chute several times previously, and had never seen a crack form in this location).

 

It was definitely an exciting moment, and it definitely made me consider what gear I choose to bring on climbs when I am not roping up. Frankly, I'm really glad I didn't have to figure out how to get Jay out of there, and thankful I didn't lose a really solid partner.

 

cheers

[sweatinoutliquor]

Phew! That's some scary stuff dude, glad you are okay. I'm sure that folks heading up that way will appreciate the warning here as well as the hole you opened up for them to ponder.