Spousal Abuse

[Guest]

I have time this summer (interpret as my spouse is graciously allowing me) a 3-4 day alpine trip. I have narrowed my choices to Baker or Shuksan. I would like a 1 day approach, 1 day on the glacier, 1 summit day, and the fourth day for a bad weather backup summit day and hike out day. Routes suggestions to get the most for my time? Skill level is 7 on 1-10 scale.

Thanks

[Yossarian]

"To meet chickie climber babes - hubba hubba"

I hope your spouse doesn't read your previous posts.

Anyway, Having just returned from the Enchantments, I think you could get alot of climbing in four days being surrounded by peaks. Day one hiking, days two through three climbing. Plus, the weather is better than Baker. Of course, peak for peak none of them compare with Baker or Shucksan.

[Charlie]

fisher chimney route on shucksan. Ive done it twice and will probably do it again. This year may be a bad year for it due to low snowfall. Ask around about the glacier conditions. This route contains a little bit of everything- thousands of feet of 4th class, 2 very steep snow chutes, serious glcier navigation, and 500 feet of 4th/ low 5th to the summit....my second favorite alpine route.

[DPS]

I did Fisher Chimneys two weeks ago. It is in fine shape. I have done this route as late as October, it stays in shape all year. Winnie's Slide gets icier though. I second the recommendation. This route has a little of everything, just make sure you find the correct entrance to the chimneys.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I have to side with Y. There is a ton of shit back there.... We did 4 summits in half a day and there were 400 more ........

[mark]

Baker and Shuksan are good pics but you don't need 4 days for either of them, you can do them in 2. So why waste your long break on something that can be done on a weekend.

How about one of the 9,000 footers that are more suited for a 3/4 day trip. How about the northeast butress of Goode and if things go right on a 4 day trip you can tag Logan or Storm King as well.

Whatever you decide, enjoy your climbing. Rgds

[mattp]

Y and Caveman are right that there's a lot to do in the Enchantments but your initial post indicated that you wanted to spend a day on a glacier. Although there are some small glaciers in the Enchantments, you would have a hard time finding one of them interesting enough to occupy yourself for a day.

Mt. Shuksan is one of the most beautiful peaks around and would make a good choice, but I don't know what you'd do for four days.

Mt. Baker has larger glaciers, and the Coleman on the west side is often a good place for ice climbing practice which would be found near the campsites from where you would climb the old standard route, the Coleman-Demming, or try one of the harder climbs like the North Ridge or Coleman Headwall.

Similarly, if you were to head for Forbidden Peak, it has several excellent routes on good rock and two very good alpine climbs, the N. Ridge and the NW Face, and without travelling anywhere you could combine the trip with an ascent of Torment (a mountain climb), Sharkfin (another rock climb), Boston Peak (probably not quite as good) or Sahale (a gentle glacier climb from that side). If you headed up there mid week, you could probably even get the permit for it!

If the weather is marginal but still OK, I would suggest Mt. Adams. It is often fine down there when the North Cascades are getting drenched.

Have fun.

[Juneriver]

Another option is Dome, Spire and Gunsight.. that is if you don't mind the long approach.

However, if it were me, I'd probably head for the Enchantments.

Jamie

[Dru]

Tantalus Range is cool for 4 days, 1 day in, 2 days pk bagging, 1 day out, cheap CDN$$$, brew pub babes...