pu Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Who here has done the NW Butt of Mt Stuart. Looks like it might be a good way to variate the W ridge. Looking for beta/suggestions. Once topping out on the butt is a rope needed to gain the W ridge route? Thanks for the help. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 NW Face? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 NW Butt is a lot of loose rock on slab. I downclimbed/rapped it once and never had the urge to return. I would guess that the 5.9 traverse would go easier with a rope but I didn't actually climb it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pu Posted August 14, 2008 Author Share Posted August 14, 2008 NW Butt. The rocky protrusion between Razorback ridge and goat pass. 5.9 Traverse?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 Don't fret for Eric, he's got an ascender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 NW Butt. The rocky protrusion between Razorback ridge and goat pass. 5.9 Traverse?? At the top of the slab is a small headwall of overhanging choss. The route as Becky describes it, goes left on a few moves of 5.9 right below the headwall. There are probably a million alternative routes but I haven't heard of them. Wear a helmet and be very careful about loose rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony_Bentley Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 Actually it might go as a ski route or a good winter route. I would't bother climbing it in the summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 NW Butt. The rocky protrusion between Razorback ridge and goat pass. 5.9 Traverse?? At the top of the slab is a small headwall of overhanging choss. The route as Becky describes it, goes left on a few moves of 5.9 right below the headwall. There are probably a million alternative routes but I haven't heard of them. Wear a helmet and be very careful about loose rock. Sorry. I checked the Becky guide and my memory is fading. It makes no mention of 5.9. However, my memory is not so bad as to make up the loose rocks I encountered while beating feet down it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pu Posted August 16, 2008 Author Share Posted August 16, 2008 No problem. I appreciate the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 I soloed NW Buttress variation from Goat pass. pg 278-279 in Becky guide. There was only one place where it was technical, about 5.2-5.4.(just a couple of moves) After it joins the West ridge there's one other tech crux (5.6-5.7). Don't remember that much looseness on the route. I had intended to do the West ridge but mistakenly started at Goat Pass. I followed the crest most of the way, not sure where I went in the Becky photo. The upper crux on the West ridge had 2 ways to go, one 50' slab in a left facing corner (5.6-5.7), or one short steep step, about 2 or 3 moves (5/7?) Neither very exposed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pu Posted August 17, 2008 Author Share Posted August 17, 2008 Awesome, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triggerhappy Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 Does anyone know about climbing the West ridge itself? Went up the route this weekend and was disappointed to find that most of it is in gulleys rather than on the crest itself. Was thinking of going back and trying it the real way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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