NW Butt Mt Stuart????

[pu]

Who here has done the NW Butt of Mt Stuart. Looks like it might be a good way to variate the W ridge. Looking for beta/suggestions. Once topping out on the butt is a rope needed to gain the W ridge route?

 

Thanks for the help.

 

Joe

[DirtyHarry]

NW Face?

[Bug]

NW Butt is a lot of loose rock on slab.

I downclimbed/rapped it once and never had the urge to return.

I would guess that the 5.9 traverse would go easier with a rope but I didn't actually climb it.

[pu]

NW Butt. The rocky protrusion between Razorback ridge and goat pass. 5.9 Traverse??

[spotly]

Don't fret for Eric, he's got an ascender

[Bug]

NW Butt. The rocky protrusion between Razorback ridge and goat pass. 5.9 Traverse??

At the top of the slab is a small headwall of overhanging choss. The route as Becky describes it, goes left on a few moves of 5.9 right below the headwall. There are probably a million alternative routes but I haven't heard of them.

Wear a helmet and be very careful about loose rock.

[Tony_Bentley]

Actually it might go as a ski route or a good winter route. I would't bother climbing it in the summer.

[Bug]

NW Butt. The rocky protrusion between Razorback ridge and goat pass. 5.9 Traverse??

At the top of the slab is a small headwall of overhanging choss. The route as Becky describes it, goes left on a few moves of 5.9 right below the headwall. There are probably a million alternative routes but I haven't heard of them.

Wear a helmet and be very careful about loose rock.

Sorry. I checked the Becky guide and my memory is fading. It makes no mention of 5.9.

However, my memory is not so bad as to make up the loose rocks I encountered while beating feet down it.

[pu]

No problem. I appreciate the input.

[Buckaroo]

I soloed NW Buttress variation from Goat pass. pg 278-279 in Becky guide. There was only one place where it was technical, about 5.2-5.4.(just a couple of moves) After it joins the West ridge there's one other tech crux (5.6-5.7). Don't remember that much looseness on the route.

 

I had intended to do the West ridge but mistakenly started at Goat Pass. I followed the crest most of the way, not sure where I went in the Becky photo. The upper crux on the West ridge had 2 ways to go, one 50' slab in a left facing corner (5.6-5.7), or one short steep step, about 2 or 3 moves (5/7?) Neither very exposed.

[pu]

Awesome, thanks.

[triggerhappy]

Does anyone know about climbing the West ridge itself? Went up the route this weekend and was disappointed to find that most of it is in gulleys rather than on the crest itself. Was thinking of going back and trying it the real way.