[TR] Mount Index - Traverse 7/12/2008

[Panos]

Trip: Mount Index - Solo Traverse

 

Date: 7/12/2008

 

Trip Report:

 

Any fellow who wants to climb the North Face of Mt. Index North Peak or to do the traverse of the mountain should go now! I was up there yesterday (Saturday, July 12) and I found perfect conditions, that is: dry rock throughout and lots of snow along the traverse (for getting water) and in the descent gully (quite firm despite the high temperatures).

 

This was a solo climb completed in 12:40 car-to-car (9:00AM - 9:40PM). No use of rope was made except for hauling my back pack up the short pitch out of the notch between the North and the Main Peaks. No rappel was made either, the down-climbing from the North Peak to the notch took some searching and a fair amount of 5.6 (and easier) down-climbing on shitty exposed rock. You know how it is there: every piece of rock that you touch and it's loose and goes down the steep gully shows you the way that your body will take if you slip...

 

The quality of the route is not super great but the grandeur and ruggedness of the terrain is unequaled for the size of the mountain.

 

Here is a link to some cool pictures:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Doribex/Index

 

Gear Notes:

 

Carrying crampons is not necessary if temperatures stay high. Boot skiing down the descent gully is awesomely fast. A light ice-axe recommended for the descent. I had a medium rack (nuts and cams to 3'') plus a 6.5mm 70m rappel cord and a 20m single rope. From all these only the cord was used to haul the back pack in that one steep pitch. In case a retreat is needed though one must have plenty of slings and rappel rings plus the rope and a small rack. A 2 litter water bottle and a soft funnel (cut half a small plastic bottle) to help with getting water from the rocks.

 

Approach Notes:

 

1:30 from the car to the start of the climb.

2:30 from the top of Main Peak back to the car.

8:40 of climbing (stops included).

 

Edited July 25, 2008 by Panos

[rob]

Man, that's some strong work.

 

Sounds like conditions are pretty good -- I was on the north face in october and it sucked -- bushy, no water, short days, etc.

 

can't wait to see the pics

[Panos]

I added a link to the Picasa album.

 

I went there 3 times between September and early November

last year and 3 times I turned back. The first time everything

was soacking wet, the second time visibility was really poor

and the third time it had already snowed!

 

So, this was a commitment for me

Edited July 14, 2008 by Panos

[wbk]

Way to get after it Panos! Impressive!

[Bug]

Impressive solo Panos.

Thanks for the mini vacation from work.

[Marko]

Damn cool

[climbaround]

Coolern' a moose and twice as hairy! Thanks for the report and pics.

[DPS]

Man, that's some strong work.

 

Sounds like conditions are pretty good -- I was on the north face in october and it sucked -- bushy, no water, short days, etc.

 

Plus you very nearly died.

[Buckaroo]

What kind of boots/shoes did you climb with?

[Panos]

.

From the base of the climb to the top of Main peak I wore my climbing shoes. Then I put on my mountaineering leather boots. No question, the latter were heavy to carry but there was a lot of snow left and I would not go like this again: http://picasaweb.google.com/Doribex/Bugaboos/photo#5233073464221633394

Edited August 27, 2008 by Panos