Dome Peak's SE Face

[NoahT]

Scurlock has a sweet photo...Do you know--is this the "south face" mentioned in the beckey guide as having been attempted but found to have generally poor rock?

 

 

 

[Sol]

I think so. Darin are you out there?

[John_Scurlock]

Hey thxs. Been by that many times & always been impressed. The only clue I ever thought about it was the lack of obvious rockfall on the glacier below but so hard to know from the air. Seems to me it is one of the larger steep faces in the range. It may have the worst access of any part of Dome...

 

It's on the R partly shaded here: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/70104375

 

The upper part to me is slightly reminiscent of the diamond on Bear but not as steep or as smooth looking. I called it "SE" based only on the fact that you look to the NW to view it.

[NoahT]

Well I was impressed by the picture, so thank YOU. It's likely just another one of those face/buttress/peaks I'll ogle from afar, though people have put in more, for less...

[dberdinka]

A long time ago two dudes went in there and failed. Then they walked all the way home and sent a letter to the AAJ proclaiming it ass. Yet they were inclined to mention that it could hold several grade IV routes if you were into that sort of thing (ass). Then no one every went back. At least no one who sprays all over the intertubes. The End.

 

Oh and one more note. John's photos are amazing and I have burnt as much time as anyone staring at them. But (based on personal expereince) when it comes to rock faces they are not an effective tool for ascertaining rock quality or potential lines. The only way to find out is to boat, bike walk and schwack all the way in there.

Edited July 14, 2008 by dberdinka

[John Frieh]

Doorish's ridge route on Dome looks awesome. Since everyone seems to make such a big deal about it I believe it's unrepeated

[dberdinka]

What ridge route on Dome?

[John Frieh]

I dont have my beckey @ work... sorry... I'll check when I get home. I believe it's the one with the cannon hole on it... I know Doorish has a ridge on Dome that goes @ "Doorish 5.10"

 

I'd rope up for it and carry all the group gear if someone promises to lead any/all pitches I dont want

[John Frieh]

SW Ridge of the SW Peak of Dome: July 1992. Rating: 5.10. Time: unverified.

 

Technically not "on" Dome but one could continue from the SW summit to the true summit.

 

My offer stands... Darin?

 

 

[John_Scurlock]

(based on personal experience) when it comes to rock faces they are not an effective tool for ascertaining rock quality or potential lines. The only way to find out is to boat, bike walk and schwack all the way in there.

 

That is 100 pct the truth Darin.

[wayne]

DB has spoken.

 

Ah to be young

Layton wants me to waste some precious knee-cartilage to go in there.

[NoahT]

Thanks guys--I was in my bosses attic reinstalling refinished windows, though actually leafing through a book of the north cascades. This black and white photo of that side of the mountain caught my eye. "Older" book, I don't remember the photographers name off-hand. I figured it would have been a feature worthy of some attention--if you're into that sort of thing...

 

Cheers, N

[John_Scurlock]

Layton wants me to waste some precious knee-cartilage to go in there.

 

hmmm... there's a chance he saw that face from a small aircraft several yr ago...

[John Frieh]

I hiked out from White Rocks down all of Downey Creek to Suiattle River Road a few summers ago... that SE face on Dome isnt the only really big face in there

 

Speaking of white rocks that ridge Nelson climbed on Elephant's Head looks awesome too!