preferred rope system for DC (3-person team) - DC

[mes5421]

preferred rope system for DC (3-person team) - DC

 

 

 

 

Me and two buddies will be on the hill later this month. I was thinking of going light and carrying a 30-meter glacier-travel rope, with the first and last climber tying into the ends (no coils). Alternatively, we might go with a 60 (more rope than I really want to take)

 

anyway, I haven't been on the DC and was curious what a standard glacier set-up might be. I was thinking of having each climber in our party carry one picket and one screw, and forego a full-on Texas prusik system in favor of a single prusik cord pre-rigged on the harness.

 

so I'm just looking for something simple that will be intuitive for one of the guys in my party who doesn't have a lot of experience (and will be going in the middle)

 

 

Edited July 7, 2008 by To_The_Top

[mes5421]

I see this posted as a TR; that was inadvertent of course

 

 

[builder206]

Moderator! Cleanup on aisle two!

[DPS]

30 meter rope is probably enough, but I would still tie in short of each end to give yourself a bit of rope to work with.

 

One picket, one screw, one pulley, plus a few slings and carabiners for each person on a three man team is sufficient.

 

One prussik is fairly useless for ascending a rope.

 

Setting up a z haul system is not really intuitive, nor is ascending a rope. Best to spend some time with your partners reviewing the skills.

 

 

[mtgurus]

Petzl makes an ultra-lightweight ascender called a Tibloc. Used correctly with the correct type of locking biner this is a good choice on a Rainier harness. Typically I don't pre-load my pussiks on the climbing rope. I see many people doing this on Rainier; not having their prussiks well organized thus creating a trip hazard for themselves. You can also use different color cord for your short and long system.

 

I echo the previous climber’s message; get lots of practice with these systems.

 

PS: I don’t want to discourage you and other climbers may have different opinions but rarely have I ever used an ice screw on the DC route in July. If you plan to do any crevasse ice climbing you might use it but otherwise be very suspect of any ice screw placement unless you see water ice… Pickets and a small second tool with a hammer would be preferred.

 

[Joe_Poulton]

I second mtgurus and add, "Deep Survival" by Laurence Gonzales as a must read. If you wish to survive this outdoor game...

[DPS]

Typically I don't pre-load my pussiks on the climbing rope. I see many people doing this on Rainier; not having their prussiks well organized thus creating a trip hazard for themselves. You can also use different color cord for your short and long system.

 

I echo the previous climber’s message; get lots of practice with these systems.

 

... rarely have I ever used an ice screw on the DC route in July.

 

Very good points. Ice screws on the DC this time of year are probably not necessary.

 

Tiblocs are a great idea. I have at times pre-tied two very short prusik cords to the rope and clipped them off with carabiners and carried foot slings and a waist sling in my pocket. The idea is the short prusiks stay out of the way and in a crevasse fall all I need to do is clip the waist and foot slings on.

[jmo]

I usually pre load my prussiks, and then compact them (sometimes with rubber bands) and clip them some where out of the way. Never had too much of a problem with it. I had a bigger problem with the extra webbing and cord I was carrying on the last climb.