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no olympus??


letsroll

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Heard from the rangers that there is a TON of snow on the trail to Glacier Meadows beyond 9 mile camp. It seems that only one party has been successful to date this year. They actually had to belay through some avy slopes on the way to the final camp. I have plans to climb it this weekend. Will let you know what becomes of it.

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No way man. I was up there this last weekend skiing Zues's white landscape and found great conditions getting to Glacier Meadows.

No problems above Elk Lake, some snow in the avi chutes starting at about mile 16, but no problem. (Running Belays? You got to be kidding me!!) Some downed trees. 3-4 feet of snow at Glacier Meadows. And at least 2 other parties besides my wife and I. But the skiing was good. Just one hell of a hike for some turns.

 

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Some Canadians did last weekend. I'll let you know more today or tomorrow.

Z

 

My apologies, they left on 28th and coming back on July 1st. I promise I will provide to you more info if you need it by Wednesday. Including some pictures. Two of them are my good friends.

 

Plan: Ascent via Blue Glacier (Standard Route). Glacier travel and gear required.

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The Rangers told me the same thing when I got my permit. It sounded nuts to me, and even more so when I got above Elk Lake. Hearing that people actually had a running belay going is surprising, considering. . . it's flat.

The route is in fine shape. One impassable crevasse on the direct route to the saddle, but otherwise fine. The snow starts in the avi chutes, then disappears, and then re-appears at Glacier Meadows at about mile post 17.

 

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The rangers at ONP (and folks at Olympic Mountain Rescue too) seem to play this game every year; issuing bogus reports of horrendous conditions that do not exist. I climbed it three years ago with my son--despite erroneous reports of a fictitious 60 foot wide Tyrolean-traverse moat at the summit pinnacle and tall tales about Snow Dome riddled with impassible crevasses. Something stinks at ONP.

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When I did it two years ago we got to Glacier Meadows on a bluebird day at 11am or so and the rangers tried to convince us not to go up. "It's too warm, too soft, too late, you don't have enough gear, are you sure you're experienced?" We smiled, told them some routes we'd done elsewhere, and headed for the glacier. We had the entire upper mountain to ourselves on a perfect day.

 

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A friend and I summited on Saturday (June 28). Beautiful weather the whole trip. No avy danger, no problems. We left the trailhead about 9:30pm Friday, summited about 2pm on Saturday and back to the car by 7:30am Sunday...long push. No real problems, we never even roped up, just used the rope to rappel from the summit block...we passed a group who had tried going straight up to summit from Snow Dome which doesn't go due to bergschrund up top...need to traverse around east peak and up from behind. I'll try to post some pics later...

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